Ford 2600 not engaging starter

[bf15]

I have a ford 2600 that was starting with the occasional issue with it not firing right away, and it would sometimes take a few key bumps and it fired right up. Today i was trying to figure out why none of my lights were working, and i was tracing the cables looking for a break since the fuses were good.

Im guessing i moved some wheres around and something may have grounded or disconnected but the next time I went to start it the negative terminal sparked a lot and now it does not try to start at all.

Is there a starting circuit fuse? I found a 15 amp behind the cluster, it is not blown, and there are 2 20 amp fuses under the right side area that i located and those are both good. These seem to be coming off the light switch so unlikely to be the issue.

I found 1 broke wire off the gauge cluster that seems like some rats chewed up, but it appears to be a ground going to the top of the fuel tank.

Starter solenoid appears to be good because it would start without issue if i cross the points together on the solenoid, just wont try to start if i use the key.

Tomorrow i plan to fixed the wire the rats have been chewing on, and try putting a jumpter in the wires going to the neutral safty lockout, to eliminate that.

 

[JerryK]

First thing I would check is your battery cables. Battery fumes deteriorate the cable ends where the wires are swagged/crimped/soldered/whatever to the clamps. They may look great, but have internal problems that you can not see. Also check both ends of the ground cable. Where it connects to the frame is just as important to starting as the battery clamp. Again, looking OK is not the same as being OK. Bad connections, bad cables, bad battery, etc... can cause the starter to just bump.

 

[bf15]

First thing I would check is your battery cables. Battery fumes deteriorate the cable ends where the wires are swagged/crimped/soldered/whatever to the clamps. They may look great, but have internal problems that you can not see. Also check both ends of the ground cable. Where it connects to the frame is just as important to starting as the battery clamp. Again, looking OK is not the same as being OK. Bad connections, bad cables, bad battery, etc... can cause the starter to just bump.

So bypassing the neutral worked, this will get me by for a bit, but now i still need to figure out whats going on with the lights.

The wires look complete from without any breaks.

If i pull the light switch the light on the cluster light turns on to light up the RPM's, but the headlights and nor the hazards will work

there are 2 fuses off of the switch, one was blown, the other was good. I tried swapping the good fuse into the other fuse holder, but no change in the lights working.

 

[i7win7]

Im guessing i moved some wheres around and something may have grounded or disconnected but the next time I went to start it the negative terminal sparked a lot and now it does not try to start at all.

If your talking battery terminal, clean and reconnect battery clamps.

Starter solenoid appears to be good because it would start without issue if i cross the points together on the solenoid, just wont try to start if i use the key.

Can't be in 2 places at once, need 12v buzzer or light, the Switch terminal will have 12v when key is in start position. If not back track to switch or replace wire. Ignition coils do not run on 12v. The Ignition terminal sends battery voltage to coil for hotter spark during cranking