Foundation repair

[zimcocomp]

I have a problem with rot on my foundation on one side where the ground level is too close to the top of the foundation. My plan is to replace the sill and that does not bother me. What I would like to do is raise the ground level along side the foundation but to do that it would put the level above the foundation. My question is: Is there a product to use to replace the lower part of the sheathing so I can back fill higher to increase run off away from the foundation ? I thought of cement board but as far as I can find out it doesn't take kindly to repeated freezing and thawing. Anyone have any experience with a material that would do the job?

 

[2manyrocks]

Concrete block that has been sealed with waterproofing is a possibility, but is there any option to divert water some other way besides raising the level of your foundation dirt?

 

[JB4310]

Nothing would be suitable for what your talking about, there's gonna be seams, joints etc.

If you are capable of changing the sills you could raise the foundation to above grade, not a small job but you are going to be in there already.

I'm a basement waterproofing contractor and any time the top of the foundation is close to or below grade its a problem, not only to sills but also water spilling over top of foundation into basement.

Even raising the foundation will leave a cold joint that could seep a little but it would hold back the majority of the water.

I'm looking at this from a basement water problem point of view, if you have well drained soil and no real water issues then maybe pt plywood with a metal flashing over that. I've seen that done. If you have clay based soil then it wont work, unless you install a drainage system along that side, a little lower than the sill ending to daylight.

JB.

 

[mikefromnh]

I'd try to change the grade first. Hard to know w/o pics but could you build a small retaining wall 3-4' away from the foundation and then lower the area close to house and fill with stone -- would need a drain pipe to day light.

 

[zimcocomp]

Thanks a lot guys.
A foot of snow eliminates photos, but I previously installed a perimeter drain and surface water isn't much of an issue but mainly because the grade was raised near the foundation before. This made it too close to the sill and thus the problem. Maybe pt plywood and a lot of tar for sealer between foundation and plywood?

Thanks again, I am waiting for spring.

 

[2manyrocks]

Not to be negative, but I don't have a good feeling about this.

Since you won't be working on it for awhile, I'd research whatever they are using to seal basement walls with these days to see if you can use one of those products or methods for what you are doing.

My impression is tar is not a good long term sealant.

There is a drain system where they seal the wall, then there is an exterior drain mat, and then another protective layer on top of the mat. Then the drain mat runs into a perimeter drain to carry the water away.

I also recall there were some experiments with PT wood foundation walls--you might look at that, too, to see if there's anything there of use to you.

Wish I could be more helpful.

 

[CurlyDave]

Nothing would be suitable for what your talking about, there's gonna be seams, joints etc.

If you are capable of changing the sills you could raise the foundation to above grade, not a small job but you are going to be in there already.

I'm a basement waterproofing contractor and any time the top of the foundation is close to or below grade its a problem, not only to sills but also water spilling over top of foundation into basement.

Even raising the foundation will leave a cold joint that could seep a little but it would hold back the majority of the water.

I'm looking at this from a basement water problem point of view, if you have well drained soil and no real water issues then maybe pt plywood with a metal flashing over that. I've seen that done. If you have clay based soil then it wont work, unless you install a drainage system along that side, a little lower than the sill ending to daylight.

JB.

+1


The real ticket is to use poured concrete. While this does leave you with a cold joint, there are adhesives which can help with this issue.

I have done this as a DIY project. It is major league project, but it can be done.