Hand falling and techniques

   / Hand falling and techniques #1  

Skeans1

Platinum Member
Joined
Jan 27, 2020
Messages
624
Location
NW OR
Tractor
JD 6410, JD 730 Crop Row, Kubota B3030
Let’s see how and where guys are using different methods of falling timber.

Being out on the wet coast I’m sure I do it backwards to some but this is the standard way of falling out here.
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   / Hand falling and techniques #2  
I've seen it done that way and especially if the expert sawman needs it to fall due to a space issue. For the most part though it's easy to drop just with a specific cut on the side you want it go in.
 
   / Hand falling and techniques #3  
Use conventional face here, with back cut, or plunge cut if it's a dead ash.
Ours mostly 100' or less, so no notch and jack needed.

If it's too near a house etc. I'll call in someone with a crane or cherry picker.

Did a lot of plunge cuts the last few years with the dead Ash, too many tried to barberchair.
More ropework where we have dense trees.


you are way more pro than I ever was with that setup.
 
   / Hand falling and techniques #4  
Nothing over 3ft diameter where I am...all soft woods to boot. Much easier to deal with. I look at the tree longer than I take to fell it. Mostly just careful cuts and wedges.
 
   / Hand falling and techniques #5  
Felling trees causes them to fall. :p

I use a conventional cut for the small amount of firewood trees I harvest, 90% of which are 16" and under.
 
   / Hand falling and techniques #6  
I have nothing that BIG or tall to try.
 
   / Hand falling and techniques #7  
I like the humbolt notch on a steep slope, it also stretches the small white cedars we have here. I do plunge backcuts on leaners as well. I did a 2 weekend course and its been a good investment.
Never used a jack, but should have the once on a 3' red oak... Stacked wedges wouldn't quite get it over... Neighbor pulled it over with his tractor but I had to nibble the hinge down to very very thin, and once the tractor was tied on, I didn't want it to go over backwards either!
 
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   / Hand falling and techniques
  • Thread Starter
#8  
I like the humbolt notch on a steep slope, it also stretches the small white cedars we have here. I do plunge backcuts on leaners as well. I did a 2 weekend course and its been a good investment.
Never used a jack, but should have the once on a 3' red oak... Stacked wedges wouldn't quite get it over... Neighbor pulled it over with his tractor but I had to nibble the hinge down to very very thin, and once the tractor was tied on, I didn't want it to go over backwards either!
Using a jack isn’t something I’d recommend for everyone it’s a unique experience as well it can be nerve racking. That jack was setup just for some of the ones that aren’t leaning back that bad, if they are I have a dual ram setup that will lift 102 tons as well as they have a gauge to watch what the tree is doing.
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One thing that can help is putting the back cut in first on a back leaner like we do with jacks.
 
   / Hand falling and techniques
  • Thread Starter
#9  
Use conventional face here, with back cut, or plunge cut if it's a dead ash.
Ours mostly 100' or less, so no notch and jack needed.

If it's too near a house etc. I'll call in someone with a crane or cherry picker.

Did a lot of plunge cuts the last few years with the dead Ash, too many tried to barberchair.
More ropework where we have dense trees.


you are way more pro than I ever was with that setup.
It’s made me a good living doing it,
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it’s nice to be able to save out and sometimes it’s just nice not having to hardly touch wedges.
 
 
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