Haying tips?

[zzvyb6]

Funny how both our machines have issues in exactly the same areas. I just welded one of my front forks back together (with a bridge reinforcement).

My pulley shield brace also broke.

BTW: I just removed the 2 rear forks as being unnecessary (used for retrieval). As you can see, your wagon frame is level with the ground. Mine is pitched downward in front. How about adapting a tractor drawbar to a Class III truck type and then use a drop hitch to lower the front end?

Also, the wheel you added to the bale chute needs to caster (rotate). Otherwise it will get torn off when turning. Mine is just a heavy duty job from TSC.

 

[Wildcat Ranch]

Mine was hit by a car. The only damage was to the frame and I got it pretty close to straight but I do need to tug on it a little more. Couldn't pass it up for $550 I put in a electric actuator from surplus center for the auto-tie. There is suppose to be a rod going from the auto-tie lever towards the tractor where you can reach it from the seat. Mine didn't have it as it also looks like you don't either. Might be something you want to consider so that you don't have to stop and get off the tractor each time to engage and disengage the auto-tie feature. I haven't used the auto-tie feature yet because the pins are not aligned with the holes in the second table due to the frame being off.

I also put a hydraulic cylinder for the pickup. Wasn't too difficult and I don't have to reach back to lift the pickup and then get off the tractor to lower it. If you have an extra remote....

I wouldn't hook it up to the 3pt. I don't think you would want to hit a bump or something and the bale wagon push the 3pt drawbar up into your pto shaft.

 

[WTA]

that's a good idea on the caster wheel. I hadn't thought of that. I have to go to tsc today so I'll look for one.

Now i'm worried about keeping my tractor. My wife just had to ask for an extension on our payment which is due in a couple weeks, thanks to our dealer here screwing me every which way they could for the last three months! I sure hope they approve it.

 

[slowzuki]

Our neighbours have the Case JX 70 cousin to your TDD 95. Its only got 16.9 x 30 tires on it so the drawbar is much closer to normal. The final drives are spur gear offset to the rear as well though but probably not as much as yours. They have the tires set in as narrow as they can go too, basically rubbing on the fenderwells.

 

[WTA]

I still love my blue one but with all the problems lately I'm almost kicking myself for not staying red. Mostly because the international dealer here is a much better equipped shop with experienced mechanics. Hopefully I'll never need to take it in again. I'm really starting to miss the old reliable super C Farmall I had to sell to get this one!

Hey all, I have a question about my 116 NH haybine.

Last month I had a heck of a time getting my alfalfa to dry. It was a ruined crop that I couldn't sell thanks to an oil leak on the tractor but I still wanted to feed it to my goats and ended up baling it still wet after 6 days on the ground and raking it over twice. I had the deflector on the back of the cutter set about halfway down to make a semi wide windrow but this time I'm setting it all the way down to make the widest row I can. Will that help much ya think? Is it recommended to rake it at all or should I just let it be this time till I bale it. I think my baler will pick up the whole row with it as wide as the cutter can make it.

 

[Robert_in_NY]

What I do is cut the Alfalfa and leave it lay as wide as possible, the next morning (early when there is a good dew on it still) I run my tedder across with just enough rpms to stir the alfalfa but not knock off a lot of leaves. The next day I rake it and bale on the fourth day. This is in New York near Lake Erie so we get a nice breeze usually but also have plenty of moisture to deal with.

 

[WTA]

I finally got that stack wagon of mine working good this morning. Last night I baled half my bermuda field and picked it up with the wagon only to have my first stack fall over on me. I had a cinder block wall that I was backing it up to and my son told me to stop coming back about 5 feet short of the correct spot so it all fell over. I have that problem fixed now. after we restacked it I got out and looked myself the next time. The second stack went off the wagon without a problem at all.
TO fix the problem with the cross conveyer not grabbing some of the bales I made the bales about two inches longer this time. They are 40 inches wide now. Is that about standard for small squares? Or should it be? Most of the feed stores are selling 36 inch wide ones here.

Last night I also took my neighbors advice and baled that bermuda in the middle of the night. It did help it pack a lot better into nice looking bales with the dew starting to come down on it. All the bales were between 9 and 16 % moisture so I should be safe on that. I'll take some pictures of everything in operation tonight in case anyone wants to see.

Oh I was reading somewhere, I think here, that when using the pushoffs on the wagon that you should just put the tractor in neutral and let the pushoffs push the whole rig out. It doesn't work with my tractor. I had to put it in my lowest gear and feather the clutch while I held the remote lever down to work the pushoffs. That hydraulic cylinder wouldn't budge the tractor at all. I guess mine is just too big for it. Also thanks to one of you posting the picture of how to do the tie stack I tried that too and it worked great.

 

[Wildcat Ranch]

If I am on level ground, the balewagon will push the tractor in neutral but my tractor is a lot lighter then yours... I usually keep the tractor in gear and ride the clutch as I push to keep stress off of those pushoffs.

Our bales are about 39-40" and weigh between 60 to 75 depending on the moisture.

 

[Briana03]

I moved your thread to the new Haying forum!