Heater Help

[grassroots2323]

I have an older Dayton 150K btu oil-fired portable heater that I am in need of some help on. It's been cold here in north Texas so I got it out, filled with new fuel and fired right up but wasn't running as smooth as it used to. Took the top cover off just to check it out and noticed it was pretty dirty so I cleaned everything from the rear air inlet to the ignitor, replaced the filters and found the filter housing cracked so I replaced it, the pressure spring kit and rotor also. I then set the fuel pressure to spec, gapped the plug, replaced the cover and plugged it in. It spit and sputterd and shut itself down. I reset and tried several more times with the same outcome. Next I took the top cover off to check the plug fire and the darn thing fired up for several seconds! Replaced the cover and it died. Propped one side of the cover open with a 2x4 and now it runs for 30 seconds and trips the reset button. Checked and cleaned the photocell and it is about the only thing I haven't replaced. I'm missing something but what? And why does it not run with the top cover on? Any ideas would be greatly appreciated? Thanks in Advance, Grassroots.

 

[JMynes]

I don't have much experience with portable heaters, just residential oil heat. The eye you mentioned is basically a switch. It 'sees' the flame and closes the circuit, allowing the unit to contiunue to run. 30 seconds of no fire, it shuts down. Trace the wires back to the terminals, and put a jumper on it while it's burning. If you jumper it prior to lighting it, it probably won't start, but jumper it after lighting to rule out a bad eye.
It runs with the cover off, but not on? Sounds like an air problem. If you can see a way to adjust the air, choke it back to a lazy orange flame, then increase the air to get a bright yellow flame, and that's where you need to be. This is with all covers in place, running configuration.
You might also want to replace the nozzle. Take it off and take it with you to the hardware store to match up the specs. The nozzle should have numbers stamped on the side, such as .50 60B or .60 80A or something similar. The first number (.50 or .60 in my example) refers to gallons per hour at 100 psi pump pressure. The second number is the spray angle in degrees, with 90 being short and wide and 45 being long and narrow. The A, B, or other designation further describes the spray pattern as hollow or solid or some other variation.
Keep in mind this is all residential oil heat info, but I think the portable heaters use the same nozzles, and the concepts are all the same. No need to worry about chimney draft, though.
You need three things here. Air, fuel, and a source of ignition. If you have all three, you've got fire. It's so easy, even a cave man figured it out.