Heating my pole barn (ND Edition)

[Slowpoke Slim]

Appreciate the replies so far. I have lots of things to consider, and probably a few years before I can implement at least some of it. As it sits now, it is really just a storage building with overhead lights. At least my RV and tractor are now under a roof when parked.

I do like the idea of leaving the floor plan open. I know that makes the insulating and heating a larger issue, but I hate to chop up the space into smaller chunks, as it would make it harder to move equipment around, and reposition trailers and attachments when desired.

I'm not looking to turn it into a living space, or heat it as you would the inside of a continuously occupied house. But if I could get it at least up to zero degrees in dead of winter, or even better would be +30 or +40 F, when I desired to be out there, that would be enough. I doubt I would leave the heat on all the time (unless it was an in floor radiant system, I know those take forever to heat up), but thinking more for "demand heat" when I knew I would be out there for a while (few hours at least). Just going out there to grab a step ladder or similar, I wouldn't bother with the heat, just grab it and go.

But I'm thinking about some kind of general "area" heat, try to get the entire space up to 0 F, and with maybe a couple of spot heat sources near where I'm actually working to drive that space up to around +30 F or +40 F? I know that may sound silly to some, but makes a big difference in being able to work in a light jacket and *maybe* no gloves (when needed) vs. being in a parka, bib overalls and heavy gloves constantly (like I would be now, no heat/insulation).

I keep my heated garage at +50 F, and I can comfortably work out there in a T-shirt if I'm moving around some. Just sitting still (reloading), I'll bump that up to +60 F, and it's very comfortable.

A few random things that were mentioned...

I have no idea if there's any warranty left on the building? We just bought this place from original owners (this past summer), I believe the shop building was built in 2015? No idea who the builder was. I doubt there's a warranty on anything.

No idea on the taxes. I doubt there's anything to do there. I don't think the county cares since it's a shop building (and yes, it does show up on the property/tax description).

I'm leaning towards spray foam (closed cell, thanks to Eddie), and possibly putting in a ceiling with blown insulation above it. Rest is still a blank canvas.

 

[srs]

Slim, When I did the insulation on my Morton building I purchased rolled insulation from them. It was (I believe) 6 inches thick and it fit exactly between the posts. It was ONE piece from ceiling to floor and post to post. I then placed a plastic vapor barrier over (ceiling to floor, one big piece) then ran horizontal 2 x 4's before placing OSB on all the walls. Great insulation for the price. One problem for me, I did the insulation by myself and it gets quite heavy. For two people it would be a piece of cake and I did it when I was about 60 years old.

One of the problems from what I've read with regard to spray foam is "oil canning" where the metal roof is deformed by using spray foam directly onto the metal. See attached photos I got off the internet. If you look at the videos below when spray foam is used there is alway some kind of backing on the metal, I'm guessing to eliminate the oil canning. For additional info you can google "oil canning", also rolled insulation to use in a pole barn. Good luck, Stanley

Insulation: 5 steps to a more efficient building and why I don't use spray foam - YouTube
How to Build a Garage Addition 22: Installing Spray Foam Insulation - YouTube
How to Build a Garage #8 Insulation, ceiling, wall finishes - YouTube

 

[bigtiller]

Appreciate the replies so far. I have lots of things to consider, and probably a few years before I can implement at least some of it. As it sits now, it is really just a storage building with overhead lights. At least my RV and tractor are now under a roof when parked.

I do like the idea of leaving the floor plan open. I know that makes the insulating and heating a larger issue, but I hate to chop up the space into smaller chunks, as it would make it harder to move equipment around, and reposition trailers and attachments when desired.

I'm not looking to turn it into a living space, or heat it as you would the inside of a continuously occupied house. But if I could get it at least up to zero degrees in dead of winter, or even better would be +30 or +40 F, when I desired to be out there, that would be enough. I doubt I would leave the heat on all the time (unless it was an in floor radiant system, I know those take forever to heat up), but thinking more for "demand heat" when I knew I would be out there for a while (few hours at least). Just going out there to grab a step ladder or similar, I wouldn't bother with the heat, just grab it and go.

But I'm thinking about some kind of general "area" heat, try to get the entire space up to 0 F, and with maybe a couple of spot heat sources near where I'm actually working to drive that space up to around +30 F or +40 F? I know that may sound silly to some, but makes a big difference in being able to work in a light jacket and *maybe* no gloves (when needed) vs. being in a parka, bib overalls and heavy gloves constantly (like I would be now, no heat/insulation).

I keep my heated garage at +50 F, and I can comfortably work out there in a T-shirt if I'm moving around some. Just sitting still (reloading), I'll bump that up to +60 F, and it's very comfortable.

A few random things that were mentioned...

I have no idea if there's any warranty left on the building? We just bought this place from original owners (this past summer), I believe the shop building was built in 2015? No idea who the builder was. I doubt there's a warranty on anything.

No idea on the taxes. I doubt there's anything to do there. I don't think the county cares since it's a shop building (and yes, it does show up on the property/tax description).

I'm leaning towards spray foam (closed cell, thanks to Eddie), and possibly putting in a ceiling with blown insulation above it. Rest is still a blank canvas.

Your building is large enough that if it was well insulated and with tight doors and windows, there will be enough radiant heat coming from the ground to keep it warmer than 0 F.

My building is running in the high 40's right now, with no supplemental heat. FYI, I am just below the 40th parallel.

 

[gstrom99]

EXACTLY!
Concrete 1/2 the floor.
Build a divider wall!
Make 1/2 ceiling of steel siding material.
Blow insulation on top.
Insulate sidewalls - 1/2 of bldg.
Add insulated ovhd. door to other end.
Use propane unit heater....easy on/off, no mess!

That's my plan for my 54x72 barn (currently with a dirt floor). I'm going to pour a concrete pad, with PEX radiant heat tubing, in a 28 x 54 foot section and build a shop inside the barn (well insulated) and 14 foot roof (long span "floor" trusses), with a 2 post lift. May use Modine Hawg heaters, if I don't fire up the in-floor heat.