How do I plan out row spacing for crops?

[macecase]

I have a Ford 8N. I would like to plant some row crops this spring. Corn, beans and other items like potatoes.

I have planted in the past and hand cultivated. However, this year I would like to plant more. So, my question becomes, what is the appropriate spacing so that I can run my tractor through?

In between the rear tires measures 40 inches. I plan on buying a three-point cultivator. I would assume those are adjustable. is there any way that I can get to rows in each pass of the tractor?

How do I plan out the spacing?

 

[nybirdman]

Space for the track of your rear wheels,40" is your spacing I have a three point cultivator;I remove the center two and use the ones on the outside.Works well.I also built a hiller attachment for mine , works and is removable.I have reversed the hiller disc since this photo.It is fine until the plants get too tall.I also added peanut shares ,they move a lot more dirt than the standard culivators.

 

[sweettractors]

I have a Ford 8N. I would like to plant some row crops this spring. Corn, beans and other items like potatoes.

I have planted in the past and hand cultivated. However, this year I would like to plant more. So, my question becomes, what is the appropriate spacing so that I can run my tractor through?

In between the rear tires measures 40 inches. I plan on buying a three-point cultivator. I would assume those are adjustable. is there any way that I can get to rows in each pass of the tractor?

How do I plan out the spacing?

Usually 36" to 42 works good for a 8N Ford. You can adjust the track width of your tractor to make variations. Ken Sweet

 

[OldMcDonald]

It is a straightforward exercise if you can handle the mathematics involved. If not, I can make some suggestions if you tell me the crop. What are you using to sow with?

The width of your tyres, as well as the spacing between (which you know is 40") both have to be taken into account. You also need to check the between tyres width on the front. You want them no less than the 40" between the rears, but a little more does no harm either since they will still be covered by the rear tyres. Each crop will have different ideal between row and in the row spacings, but some compromise is easier than changing wheel widths for every crop.

I have found over many years that I can sow most seeds, e.g. the corn and beans you mention, within 3" of the inside of the rear tyres and still be able to cultivate. Corn quickly grows too high for inter-row cultivations so you would be passing when it was still small and no great spread of roots that you might damage. I have not grown potatoes on a large scale for many years, but used to plant using a Little Grey Fergie with a 3-body Ferguson ridging plough with potato planter attached - two people sitting on tractor seats attached to the seed hopper, and dropping a potato down a chute whenever the bell rang. This was a little device that was part of the planter and made a noise at set spacings. Alternatively, and this takes a lot of skill, you could ridge, hand plant in the furrows and then split the ridges over the planted potatoes. You then run the ridgers through the crop again a couple of times to smother any weeds growing. You should look for a cultivator that is fairly light weight and has as many tines as possible (I use 7 with 32" between the rear tyres and 60" outside measurement). They must, of course, be easily adjustable for width to suit your different row widths. You might even need diferent widths of feet on the tines to give good coverage between the rows.

Unless you are opposed to it, a pre and/or post emergence spray saves a lot of cultivation time.

 

[sixdogs]

You must first set your tractor up to the generalities of your location. I'll bet most every crop around you, especially corn and soybeans is grown 30" between rows. So, you set your tractor wheels so they center at a 60" tread width, meaning center to center. The inside of the front tire lines up with the inside of the rear tire. this will give you the greatest clearance at that row spacing of 30". As well, most of the implements you'll find for sale are probably set up on a 30" row center so life is easier when you buy implements..

Right now your tractor is set up at 51' based on your 40" between tires and likely 11.2" wide rears. You need to move the wheels out according to the owner's manual to get the spacing you want and I would strongly suggest 60" in farm country. When you do two rows, you just straddle them and will have 9.5" on either side of the tire. I did the math in my head so double check but I could do this in my sleep.

After that, it's relatively easy. Plant corn and beans at the same seed spacing as your neighbors and either do a soil test or fertilize at their suggestion until you can do a test. Spray a post-emergent like Roundup over the ground to kill any vegetation and plant your corn deep enough to allow spraying a pre-emergent over them to keep weed growth down.
For beans you could plant Roundup Ready seed and have a beautiful and admirable stand of soybeans. If ideology or personal preference doesn't allow those sprays you can do a pretty good job the first year with cultivators. Each successive year will prove more difficult with weeds so you're back to the hoe thing. Remember, weed seeds like giant ragweed can live dormant for 90 years. Don't let weeds go to seed...ever.

Potatoes are more difficult because it's harder to get two rows under the tractor. It's best to just run one long row on the outside and then space your next row of whatever crop maybe 40" over. That will give you enough room to get cultivators and hillers through the two different crops.

 

[macecase]

You must first set your tractor up to the generalities of your location. I'll bet most every crop around you, especially corn and soybeans is grown 30" between rows. So, you set your tractor wheels so they center at a 60" tread width, meaning center to center. The inside of the front tire lines up with the inside of the rear tire. this will give you the greatest clearance at that row spacing of 30". As well, most of the implements you'll find for sale are probably set up on a 30" row center so life is easier when you buy implements..

Right now your tractor is set up at 51' based on your 40" between tires and likely 11.2" wide rears. You need to move the wheels out according to the owner's manual to get the spacing you want and I would strongly suggest 60" in farm country. When you do two rows, you just straddle them and will have 9.5" on either side of the tire. I did the math in my head so double check but I could do this in my sleep.

After that, it's relatively easy. Plant corn and beans at the same seed spacing as your neighbors and either do a soil test or fertilize at their suggestion until you can do a test. Spray a post-emergent like Roundup over the ground to kill any vegetation and plant your corn deep enough to allow spraying a pre-emergent over them to keep weed growth down.
For beans you could plant Roundup Ready seed and have a beautiful and admirable stand of soybeans. If ideology or personal preference doesn't allow those sprays you can do a pretty good job the first year with cultivators. Each successive year will prove more difficult with weeds so you're back to the hoe thing. Remember, weed seeds like giant ragweed can live dormant for 90 years. Don't let weeds go to seed...ever.

Potatoes are more difficult because it's harder to get two rows under the tractor. It's best to just run one long row on the outside and then space your next row of whatever crop maybe 40" over. That will give you enough room to get cultivators and hillers through the two different crops.

That what what I way looking to hear!!! Very informative.

I am against pre/post emergent, generally speaking. I'd rather do it the old way since I am not depending on this for my livelihood. I have to admit, I would use them if it was my sole income. I am battling ragweed in my pasture. I did roundup the whole thing and started over with seed and will NOT let ragweed go to seed. However, I know I will battle the existing seeds for years to come!

Anyway, I appreciate the info.

 

[macecase]

It is a straightforward exercise if you can handle the mathematics involved. If not, I can make some suggestions if you tell me the crop. What are you using to sow with?

The width of your tyres, as well as the spacing between (which you know is 40") both have to be taken into account. You also need to check the between tyres width on the front. You want them no less than the 40" between the rears, but a little more does no harm either since they will still be covered by the rear tyres. Each crop will have different ideal between row and in the row spacings, but some compromise is easier than changing wheel widths for every crop.

I have found over many years that I can sow most seeds, e.g. the corn and beans you mention, within 3" of the inside of the rear tyres and still be able to cultivate. Corn quickly grows too high for inter-row cultivations so you would be passing when it was still small and no great spread of roots that you might damage. I have not grown potatoes on a large scale for many years, but used to plant using a Little Grey Fergie with a 3-body Ferguson ridging plough with potato planter attached - two people sitting on tractor seats attached to the seed hopper, and dropping a potato down a chute whenever the bell rang. This was a little device that was part of the planter and made a noise at set spacings. Alternatively, and this takes a lot of skill, you could ridge, hand plant in the furrows and then split the ridges over the planted potatoes. You then run the ridgers through the crop again a couple of times to smother any weeds growing. You should look for a cultivator that is fairly light weight and has as many tines as possible (I use 7 with 32" between the rear tyres and 60" outside measurement). They must, of course, be easily adjustable for width to suit your different row widths. You might even need diferent widths of feet on the tines to give good coverage between the rows.

Unless you are opposed to it, a pre and/or post emergence spray saves a lot of cultivation time.

Thank you for your comments!

 

[sixdogs]

That what what I way looking to hear!!! Very informative.

I am against pre/post emergent, generally speaking. I'd rather do it the old way since I am not depending on this for my livelihood. I have to admit, I would use them if it was my sole income. I am battling ragweed in my pasture. I did roundup the whole thing and started over with seed and will NOT let ragweed go to seed. However, I know I will battle the existing seeds for years to come!

Anyway, I appreciate the info.

Get to know mare's tail --weed--as well and NEVER EVER EVER let it go to seed. It is tricky to kill because it takes a stronger dose of 2,4-D that could kill all of your wife's flowers from 50 ft away. Plus it has a zillion seeds to each plant. My garden constantly gets comments and really all I do it keep the weeds down.