Hurricane Harvey TC35 issue

[Snakebit]

So I survived the outrageous amount of water. The house is fixable and insured.

But when I got back to the house after the water receded, I wanted to check on my beloved tractor!
The water line was about halfway up the rear wheel. So I was kinda optimistic and decided to see if she would start up.
Everything behaved exactly as expected and she fired up.

But, when I push in the clutch, she doesn't want to go into forward or reverse easily. AND even with the clutch pushed all the way in (disengaged?) the tractor wants to move forward or backwards as though the clutch is not disengaging. Bummer!

So, did the clutch plate rust and stick to the flywheel? (I only guessing since I haven't ever seen the inside of the TC35. 12 years old with only about 300 hours on it. Been 100% bullet-proof until now.
Just looking for some troubleshooting techniques advice please fellas. (process of elimination)

 

[s219]

Sounds like the clutch rusted stuck to the flywheel. There is probably instructions in the owners manual how to park/store the tractor with either a block of wood, or pawl/stop on the clutch pedal to keep the clutch away from the flywheel a little bit and prevent this problem. I know both of my Kubotas call for this when the tractor is to be stored for a while, or parked in damp locations. None of that helps you other than to let you know it's a common problem and probably what has happened.

Don't know of a good solution. Maybe you can get the shifter to slide into one of the gears and then if you get the tractor going, run the throttle up and hit the brakes hard and see if that helps break the clutch loose.

 

[CalG]

Considering the length of time.

My bet is that if the clutch is rusted together, It will break loose with some "exercise".


You might try to start and warm up the engine, Shut down, put the gear box in third or so, and then start the engine again with the box already engaged (clutch pressed constantly) Drive around for a while with various loads and throttle settings . All the while waiting and hoping the clutch breaks free. NOTE! The tractor is going to pull away on the starter motor and when the engine lights. Have a safe route open in front of you, and be ready to stall the engine against the brakes!

Yup, I've been there. Only once didn't it work , That was on a 1950 Dodge 1 1/2 ton stake body. The friction material split when the plate broke free.

 

[ProjectKing]

Proceed at your own risk with this suggestion!

I've had luck taking start motor out then spraying brake cleaner between flywheel and clutch. Turn engine with a pry bar via flywheel starter gear to rotate engine so that you can coat flywheel with brake cleaner. You don't want to go crazy with the cleaner but it needs a good coat.

Park tractor with clutch pedal clamped down as far as it will go for a few days. Fire up tractor and drive around in a higher gear with clutch pedal pushed down. It will eventually break loose.

 

[Snakebit]

Excellent suggestions fellas!

I'm on it. Really like the idea of pulling the starter to get access to clutch\flywheel surface. I'll report back.

Thanks. Seriously!

 

[Snakebit]

Talk about a delayed update....

Well I tried everything suggested here, as well as some other "internet stuck clutch" suggestions, all to no avail. So I bit the bullet and hauled my 300 hour tractor in and had it split. New clutch as well.

Chalked it up to lesson learned, but it isn't exactly true. The tractor tech mentioned that although everything is excellent and that the tractor was in great shape in every other way, that I should be aware that after having a clutch stick like that, it is even easier for it to happen a second time. Of course I didn't plan on ever allowing it to be submerged in water again, I still didn't head his advice on blocking the clutch pedal when not in use.

You guessed it, I jumped on it the other day after letting it sit for a couple of months. Sure enough,......

This time I tried the "getting it up to temp and then cooling back down with the Pedal blocked". Theory being two different materials with different expansion rates would break apart. After 3 or 4 of those cycles, no dice. I went out today ready to remove the starter and try the suggestion above, which failed on the post hurricane Harvey attempt, but decided I would start her up and try the "put a load against it" technique one last time. It's a shuttle shift, so I can force it into gear as long as the ratio is really low...... like 2nd in low range. Got her rolling at about 1500rpms and stood on the clutch pedal AND the brakes as hard as I could. It overpowers the brakes, but it complains with a hearty squeal. I shuttle shifted into reverse and it squealed with a different tone. The second I shuttle shifted back to forward, it stopped! I mean the brakes stopped the tractor! I knew what that HAD to mean too. Sure enough, I sat back down on the seat and as I let out the clutch, WHALLAH.

I've learned my lesson. Lol
It sits parked with the clutch disengaged tonight.
Tomorrow, I can call in a couple of loads of crushed concrete.

All is well in TC35 land again. 15 years of ownership and it has never let ME down. I, on the other hand, have let it down twice. No more.

 

[Texasmark]

My 6530 has an OEM metal hanger just above the clutch pedal for disengaging the clutch when parked for a long period, and in the owner's manual it says to do it. I always thought it would weaken the springs, having them in tension for long periods. Well folks, I saw a picture of a Korean farmer with his rubber rice tired 6530 (like you see on the 6530 in the sales brochures) and he was sitting up to his belly in muck....couldn't believe my eyes but he was. No wonder they go to the lengths they do to protect these tractors from foreign infiltration.