Hydraulic top and side link?

[Fallon]

I use my loader a lot when grading with my box blade, depending on the job. Also, your loader makes for good ballast & traction.

Regen on your curl circuit can cause some unexpected behavior if you dont understand what's going on. Not a show stopper by as ny means though & you can search for what it is & does easily enough.

I'd second the recomendations for a diverter(s) if you can swing it, but just stealing the loader lines will work.

 

[Redlands Okie]

The diverter valve would work great. They make manual and electric ones. A john deer I used to run had a switch you flipped and the joy stick would then alternate front to back. Think it was stock but not sure.

The one issue I had with it was running grading attachments on the 3 point. It took a little getting use to since the joy stick was a bit of a reach when your trying to look back over your shoulder. Of course I have no idea where your joy stick is located, up near the engine or back near the seat.

 

[Imold]

I have looked into the electric diverted valve as a option, button right on the joystick.


Jim.

 

[Redlands Okie]

They work pretty really well

 

[Imold]

I also found this dual rear remote valve where side A has float and B does not, A would be top link of course and B side link, I know nothing when it comes to hydraulics which could be dangerous but I know better then to just hap hazardously do it without asking questions.

This would work too I believe maybe better do to space.


I understand that one line is a inlet from pump and one a outlet to the reservoir and side A would be the top line B would be side link but knowing what fittings and line to get and plumbing would be the main issue, links would not be hard but also not cheap.

I am in no hurry to do this so I will keep asking and looking till I get the right set up and also figure out where to mount the valve it self which could be interesting.


Jim.

 

[Fallon]

I also found this dual rear remote valve where side A has float and B does not, A would be top link of course and B side link, I know nothing when it comes to hydraulics which could be dangerous but I know better then to just hap hazardously do it without asking questions.
View attachment 619517
This would work too I believe maybe better do to space.
View attachment 619519

I understand that one line is a inlet from pump and one a outlet to the reservoir and side A would be the top line B would be side link but knowing what fittings and line to get and plumbing would be the main issue, links would not be hard but also not cheap.

I am in no hurry to do this so I will keep asking and looking till I get the right set up and also figure out where to mount the valve it self which could be interesting.


Jim.

There are tons & tons of posts here on TBN about adding rear remotes. All CUTs & SCUTs use the same open center system with a power beyond loop. The only difference is how the plumbing lines are routed. You'll have different space & mounting constraints, but they all work the same way.

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/hydraulics/295816-kubota-l3200-tnt-3rd-function.html is my install off my former L3200.

There are some good YouTube videos on open center vs closed center hydraulics. Once you realize how open center works life gets really easy & just becomes an exercise on routing hoses.

 

[lennyzx11]

Though I made my own rear remotes, I used a diverter valve from Kennyd that has worked flawlessly for my grapple.
Fitrite quoted me a more than fair price for my rear remotes and tnt but I couldn’t wait the lead time then. Reminds me, I still haven’t did a side link for the tilt yet.