Hydraulic Top Link for L6060

[billybonds]

I need to order a Hydraulic Top Link for my new L6060. The mechanical top link it came with is Cat 1 on the tractor side and Cat 2 on the implement side, and seems to have a minimum length of 24". Im running at about 32" +/- with the arena drag we currently use, and use a bushing to to come back down to a Cat 1 size. Tractor supply seems the easiest place to order one, should I get the Cat 1 25-9/16 to 41-5/16? Or shoudl I go with a cat 2 and use bushing to come back down to Cat 1? I dont know what the future holds, but all my current implements use a Cat 1. I did just upgrade from a 35 and 40hp tractors to this 6060, so should I go with the Cat 2?

edit to add: I just noticed they do sell and Cat 1/2 hydraulic toplink in a 25-9/16 to 39-15/16 length, is this my winner?

 

[Yander]

Can't answer your question but check out this place also. I've bought two from there and they seem like decent quality.

Spare Parts Holland

Assortment consists of tractor parts for both vintage, classic and modern tractors for the brands Massey Ferguson, Ford, New Holland, John Deere, Fiat, David Brown, Case, Renault, Zetor, Landini, Fendt, Leyland, Deutz, Same, Lamborghini, Universal, and Ursus.

www.amazon.com

 

[bdhsfz6]

I ordered the OEM cat 2 hyd. top link on my L6060 and it was a piece of crap. One of the ports sheared off the first time I used it. It was a poor design with clearance issues.

While I argued with the dealer about replacing it, I used the cat 1 hyd. top link off my old L3430 that I got from Fit Rite Hydraulics.

Fit Rite Hydraulics - fitritehydraulics.com

The dealer never did find an acceptable replacement and gave me a refund. That was 4 years ago and since all my implements are cat 1, the Fit Rite cat 1 top link has been working just fine.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Ideally a cat-1-2 with a 2 1/2" dia cylinder and a 1 1/2" dia rod with a working length of 23 1/4"- 35 1/4" has worked well for the cat 1-2 & MX series tractors that I supply top & tilt sets or just top links for.

There is no good reason for anything longer than 36" other than if you are using some sort of quick hitch draft link ends.

 

[Fallon]

I ordered the OEM cat 2 hyd. top link on my L6060 and it was a piece of crap. One of the ports sheared off the first time I used it. It was a poor design with clearance issues.

While I argued with the dealer about replacing it, I used the cat 1 hyd. top link off my old L3430 that I got from Fit Rite Hydraulics.

Fit Rite Hydraulics - fitritehydraulics.com

The dealer never did find an acceptable replacement and gave me a refund. That was 4 years ago and since all my implements are cat 1, the Fit Rite cat 1 top link has been working just fine.

Same. Fitrite on my old L3200 worked great. OEM TnT on my new L4060hstc took 6 months & 3 tries. None fit well, most leaked, some in cups per minute.

Finally got my money back & waited for Fitrite. Took a while as expected but fit perfectly. One of the cylinders developed a pinhole a few years later. He very quickly warrantied a replacement my way.

Will stick with Fitrite if I ever need another TnT.

 

[billybonds]

Am I correct in assuming that check valve prevents the rod from moving over time without input on the controls?

 

[bdhsfz6]

Yes.

 

[Fallon]

Am I correct in assuming that check valve prevents the rod from moving over time without input on the controls?

If you have crappy valves, you TnT cylinders will drift. Having gone through 7ish OEM Kubota valves, I've only found 1 that doesnt suck. I gave up & had the deaer put a DPOV on my side link & the one good valve on my toplink. I love float on the toplink & wouldnt give that up. A DPOV breaks float.

My loader valves are nice & tight. My loader takes days or weeks to move. But my "good" toplink valve will extend in several hours. My side link would extend all the way in under an hour & its not one of the worse ones they tried.