Ideas to widen L3400???

[ruready1]

Hi all,
We're REALLY needing ideas on how to safely widen our L3400. When we picked it up, the dealer stated it would do the 1000-1200# round bales with no issues. We've found out the hard way that this is only partially correct. Using a bale spear in place of the bucket (LA463), it will pick up the bales without too much issue. When we go to move the bales, that's when it gets interesting!!!! Our land is mostly ridgetop and there aren't many flat/level spots bigger than the tractor!!! We'll be doing well and the next thing you know, the front tucks under and the tractor tries to go over. I thought I was just paranoid but when I put a grade meter on it, it says I should be scared. We have too much in this new tractor to trade it in or sell it, so can anyone please suggest how to make it more stable on uneven ground??? I know you're not supposed to reverse the fronts. A former mechanic suggested moving the centers to the outside set of loops and switching sides for the rear but I'm not sure that'll even be enough. I'd hate to find out it won't give us enough stability and have to switch back since they're loaded w/beet juice (HEAVY). The rears are currently set up to be 60" outer edge to outer edge to match the loader bucket. Can duals be added to a L3400????

Any suggestions would be appreciated. We've even considered getting a larger 50+ hp utility tractor like an old Ford 5000 just to do bale feeding but considering we only feed once a week, that's a lot of $$$ for something that'll sit more often than not!

Thanks all,
Mike

 

[40_acre_mule]

Well, my first thought is that you need more weight in the rear. What are you wearing on the 3ph?
Plus, filling the tires might help with left-right stability.

 

[canoetrpr]

I have an L3400 as well and I fed round bales for the last two winters to the horses we boarded up here. I was quite stable and felt safe with a bale on the rear with a 3 PT mounted spear.

Are you lifting a bale on the front AND the back for ballast?

I think that you are near the limit of what the loader can handle and I don't think I'd want that much weight on the front just with loaded tires. The best way to do this is to have both a rear 3 PT spear and a front one. You need to be properly ballasted in the rear or your rear end will be too light. That 1200lb bale is WAY out front of the tractor. Leverage is working against you. I didn't read in your post whether or not you had something else for ballast but it does not sound like you do.

That said, if I was in a hilly area, I'd want a bigger tractor to be quite honest but you should be able to lift two bales together - front and back and be evenly balanced. In your situation, I would want AGs. I would definitely look into tire chains to ensure you have maximum traction in the winter on slopes. A wheel spacer can be added to get a slightly wider stance but from your description it sounds like you are missing ballast on the back more than anything. I apologize if I am mis-reading you.

BTW, do you have the quick attach in the front and are dropping the bucket and putting on a QA spear or something else?

 

[ruready1]

Hi guys,
I have ags all around. The rears are loaded (fronts aren't) and I have used a 6' heavy duty box blade as a counter balance. We don't have a quick attach on the loader but pull the pins, drop the bucket and pin on a bale spear in its place. Again, the tractor is set up 5' wide all the way back. The bales are also 5' +/-.

The issue isn't going up or down hills, it's going ACROSS a slight grade. Our land is RIDGELINE with everything being along the length of the grade (like a"shotgun house").

Thanks,
Mike

 

[dex3361]

Hi guys,
I have ags all around. The rears are loaded (fronts aren't) and I have used a 6' heavy duty box blade as a counter balance. We don't have a quick attach on the loader but pull the pins, drop the bucket and pin on a bale spear in its place. Again, the tractor is set up 5' wide all the way back. The bales are also 5' +/-.

The issue isn't going up or down hills, it's going ACROSS a slight grade. Our land is RIDGELINE with everything being along the length of the grade (like a"shotgun house").

Thanks,
Mike

Mike
I would definately set the rear tires out to their widest width. Kubota does not recomend setting the fronts out (to keep from damaging the axle)and it doesnt help much anyway the front will not come into play in side stability till the front axle hits its stops then it may probably not stop a roll. That said I agree fullywith adding adding balast to the rear like a bale on the rear as well as in the front.

 

[ruready1]

OK, thanks guys. I'll have the wheels set all the way out and while it's in have them look at the front end (one of the tires is cambered WAY differently than the other). Then I'll try two bales instead of one again. One of the scariest moments was last spring with two bales on it. The tractor started to tip over to the point that my wife & daughters were able to see daylight under the tires on the opposite side! I hadn't tried it since but the extra 6-8" may make a difference.

Take Care,
Mike

 

[rbargeron]

Yes - to reduce the pucker factor swap over the rears, flip the centers, and carry the bales on the back. Filled rears are heavy but if you keep them upright it's quite possible to carefully walk them around from one side to the other. The center dishes fit pretty tight so it works better to bolt them into the rims before putting the wheels over the studs.

 

[sandman2234]

I made some adapters to mount duals on my little 4x4 Ford 1100 (13hp) tractor and it was cute as could be. I think it took a couple hours to make in the shop, where stuff was right at your fingertips, but it wasn't a hard project. Not sure what the bolt pattern is on them but it was a pretty common 6 bolt size. I still have them, but not the tractor. The stability was definitely improved, but I didn't have any ridgelines, FEL, or haybales to try it on.
David from jax