Inverter stick welder first impression

[deereman75]

Thought I'd start a thread to share a few thoughts.
I have used a few inverter stick welders before, but never a name brand one. I have had a positively ancient Idealarc TM 400/400 for the last while that I am basing my comparisons on. I unfortunately no longer have my less expensive inverter welder to include in the comparison.

Anyways I recently added a Lincoln powermig 260 and have been extremely impressed with it vs the transformer powermig 256 and millermatic 252 machines I have spent time on. So much so I decided to give an inverter stick welder another try.
Just today I picked up a Lincoln Invertec V-155S
First impressions are largely positive. Case appears heavier and more durable than some of the other small welders I have seen. Controls are simple, and the power switch is a proper power switch rather than a circuit breaker.

Cons, no amperage display so a little bit of guesswork is required to initially figure out how to set it. And the electrode holder and ground clamp are the typical boarderline unusable garbage that every machine comes with. Cord comes with 110v plug installed so you have to cut that off and install a 220v before use.

Ground clamp is replaced with a 500A Lenco, and the stinger with a 400A Bernard shortstub.

After a few test beads on a scrap of plate to get the amperage set (approximately 120-125 amps on the dial) with a 1/8" 7018, I tried a basic fillet weld with some scrap bits of plate.
It seems to weld okay, bead appearance is average. Very different arc than the Idealarc which is going to take a bit of getting used to. It seems to run much hotter on a given setting. And has MUCH more aggressive arc force. With the same rods set to what seems like the same amps, the inverter tends to push the slag further back from the puddle while welding, and also is visibly digging into the base metal more aggressively.

As a whole I would say it welds nicely, and I anticipate liking it more as I get used to running it vs the machine I have been with for years.
Final thoughts would be that a digital display would be a welcome addition. And price. Although still a bit less than the equivalent miller maxstar, it is still awful steep compared to the Esab, and especially the offshore machines. I am almost half tempted to buy another Chinese inverter someday to play with the two side by side.

I will update this over the next week or two as I work with it some more. This is just my initial impressions after spending half an hour with it after getting it home.

 

[stevewarner1957]

I’ve always been amazed at how well my little Maxstar 140str welds. It was made for Miller by Fronius in the early 90’s. Doubt it will last as long as your or my Idealarcs but it’s sure easier to move around.

 

[deereman75]

Same piece, turned up about 10 amps and capped with an ArcTec 223xc.
I am going to get another box of some sort of not Esab 7018 to try out with it. I'm wondering if it is a bit pickier on rods than the Idealarc. I usually can make the slag curl with Esab rods but I can't seem to get it doing that with the new machine. View attachment 674844

 

[deereman75]

Universal reference for scale.

 

[stevewarner1957]

Here’s my little inverter. I call it the “toaster”, it’s the size of a 4 slice toaster

 

[deereman75]

That looks like a nice little one.
Also you just solved a long term mystery. A friend of mine has an Arctec branded welder (lightening arc 140) that we could never figure out who made for them.



I did a few more welds as I procrastinate unloading my truck.
Two weaves not pictured, and capped with 3 stringers. 1/8" 7018 at roughly 130a

Already growing a lot more comfortable with it. It really does run nicely once you're used to the difference in the arc.

 

[rangerfredbob]

gees... I gotta get more practice... and now I'm curious what my little Titanium Unlimited 200 will do in stick mode, I've only used it with flux core.

 

[stevewarner1957]

Get some good fresh 7018 or 7014 and you will be surprised.

 

[deereman75]

These aren't even particularly fresh.... Those welds were done with esab OK-55 7018 that has been sitting open for the better part of a year.
I don't have a rod oven here so I use 7018 for non critical work and arctec 223xc (moisture repellent in the flux, 2-3 year shelf life) for critical repairs

If you really want a rod to make you look good, find a box of 7024. Flat position only, but I bet they could actually run themself if you had a stiff enough welding lead so it wouldn't flop over....