Is there really a problem to go from mineral to synthetic, or 15w40 to 10w30?

[wheelbuilder]

For the engine, I would stick with a diesel rated oil. For some lengthy oil reading, I'd suggest A Review of Mineral and Synthetic Base Oils - Bob is the Oil Guy or www.pqiamerica.com

 

[Copperhead]

I just use a syn blend HDEO and use 10w30 during the cold months and 15w40 during the warm months. It is highly unlikely that there will be an issue changing from one grade to another in most any diesel engine. The syn blend I use is 75% Group II+ conventional and 25% Group IV PAO synthetic. On my commercial truck, the motor now has well over 1 million miles, is all original, and uses only 1 quart every 11-12,000 miles.

 

[nyone]

T6 rotella is nice stuff and $19 a gallon. I have been useing 5w40 t6 for a few years in just about everything. From my 09 Accord to my diesel equipment and even small engines.

In the accord it actual fixed a oil burning issue where the rings get stuck to the piston from burnt oil. I also changed the oil ever 1kmi. I estimate i saved roughly $1900 by doing it this way and not having honda tear appart my engine.

I have a kubota micro excavator that also required 10w30 oil. I use t6 5w40 in it also.

 

[RalphVa]

The old 10w30 spec oil is probably plain old 30w now. I've switched many old engines from dino (Group 1) to synthetic (group 4). One was a 1983 240D benz that switched on at somewhere between 100k and 200k miles. No problems whatsoever. Had an old 5665 Gravely that is speced for 10w30 in both its transmission and engine. Switched it to 20w50 because it was using oil. After the 3rd change, it was not using any oil at all. Should have changed to something like 0w or 5w30 then, but I bought the 4wd JD 4010 about then and sold the Gravely. Now, I use 5w30 in both the JD (2025R) and Isuzu diesel generator, as it was what I'd used for nearly 7 years in our VW TDI. VW gave us some $; so, I stocked up on the Castrol 5w30 from the dealership. I'm about out of it now; so, in the future, I plan to get 0w30 M1 ESP online.

I use 0w20 M1 in my 3 gasoline engines and 5w30 M1 in the air cooled lawn mowers.

Ralph

 

[drkbrent]

Very well said.

 

[dennyd]

I use 10-30 in my tractor yr around. 5-30 C-Rated if I can find it.
For the back hoe if it was mine I would use a AW 46 or 68. If your oil is crappy dump it, if not just top it off.

 

[90cummins]

No as long as it’s appropriate for the current and anticipated ambient temperatures.
It’s not like you have a colicky baby and can’t change the formula.

90cummins

 

[RalphVa]

That makes sense.



Here's a question on the inverse: per this Deere publication on Hy-Gard UTF
PMB Product: ,

"Hy-Gard oil can be used in most applications calling for 10W-30 or 5W-30 engine oil for transmission and hydraulic oils. Note: Hy-Gard should be used in all applications calling for JDM J20C."

After reading that, I wonder if 5w30 gas oil or 15w40 diesel oil are suitable to top-up the hydraulic reservoir on my 40 year old backhoe (that is only operated in mild climate). The backhoe manual says J20C oil should be used. J20C-equivalent UTF is what I've always put in it but I'm more likely to have engine oil on hand when I notice it needs topping up. Any comments?

Hy-Gard low vis is 20w oil; low vis is what most use and what our local dealer recommends. You should not top it off with 5w30 or 15w40. Hy-Gard higher vis appears to be about 25w engine oil equivalent.

Not sure the hydraulic seals are designed to be used with the high detergent engine oils. Could weaken them. Hy-Gard likely has NO detergent in it, probably very few additives.

Ralph

 

[LouNY]

I like and use synthetic 5W-40,
I don't trust a 0W and the 5W flowes quite well in cold weather.