JD 1020 - Input Shaft Seal Leak

[jjaaam]

Stands could be fabricated from pieces of 3 or 4'' angle iron with 2 holes to accomodate bolting to each side of flywheel housing. Then a roll away floor jack could be utilized to support back half. Worse thing that could be leaking is engine rear seal. Which oil trans or engine is needing topped off?

Trans fluid. Oil level is fine.

I don’t have any capacity to fabricate stands though; I’d have to pay to get them made.

 

[jjaaam]

I am willing to bet that any tractor in that size range that you pay $3,500 on will need some type of work. Anything newer will cost more and anything with electronics on it will be more complicated and therefore more of a pain to deal with. If you like the tractor and think it will serve your needs and parts are still available then it might be better to keep it.

Just my 2 cents.

You’re right, I’m sure. Just gotta justify it in my head, LOL.

 

[jshwhite]

I was in your shoes about 10 years ago helping a friend with their Ford 3000. "Splitting the tractor" sounds scary, but I went ahead and did it. Like others have said, it's not that big of a deal. I've since done it on other tractors.

If you don't have stands or a way to fabricate, you can just buy a second floor jack and a couple of jack stands, and maybe a few blocks of wood. Put your best floor jack under the front half in a position to roll it forward. Concrete floor is also pretty helpful

Good luck!

 

[Tx Jim]

When I was employed as JD dealer service manager we always rolled rear half away & to frt half. If you split using single support(jack) under frt half be sure to wedge blocks between frt axle & front support so engine stays vertical.

 

[Zebrafive]

I prefer to roll the front away from the rear when I do a split. I have split JD 2030s 6 or more times. With a helper, a person one each rear tire, moving the rear might be easier, but I work alone.
I made a single swivel wheel attachment to do my splits. I have seen two wheels, one each side on the engine to clutch housing that work well. IIRC, they were adjustable wheels from rolling scaffolds.
TxJim's tip to wedge the front axle is a MUST.
There are two bolts "hiding" under the shifter cover (holds the two shift levers). Also, one behind the transmission filter cover, that one's not hard to miss.
Don't forget to remove the rear brake hard lines. I use caps to seal every line I take apart. IIRC the brake lines are -03 JIC fittings.
There is a spring on one of the shift rails that has to come off (unless the tab for it on the rail is broken, very common). Spring is gone on my 2030, no worries.
Plan on replacing every O-ring/packing that is disturbed.

Picture is to show my splitting stand. For hydraulic fluid leak you will split clutch housing to transmission case, not clutch housing to engine, unless your clutch go oil on it. Also, notice the wooden wedge at the front axle. You need one for each side.

 

[jaymond33]

Hello,

I have a 1967 JD 1020 (gas) that has developed a transmission/hydraulic fluid leak. It appears to be coming from where the clutch lever shaft enters the housing on the left side, right in front of where you sit. I took a video with my phone and sent it to a repairman (file is too large to post here) and he said it was an input shaft seal leak with an estimate of around $2000 to split and repair. I only paid $3500 for the tractor to begin with, so I'm hesitant to put that much money into it. He did suggest using a seal sweller to see if that would help. I know that kind of thing is definitely a bit of a hack, but I would like to try it first. Would anyone out there have a recommendation as to what would be the best to use? Something from Bars Leaks?

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Thanks!

I have actually used Lucas Oil engine oil stop leak with success on a main seal in my old buick and a low pressure ( actually similar to your issue/no pressure trans seal) hydraulic fluid seal on a tractor.

 

[jjaaam]

Update: I bit the bullet and paid around $2000 to have it fixed correctly. The mechanic checked the clutch while he was in there plus changed the seal, needle bearing, and various other small stuff.

Expensive, but at least I know it should be good for some time as I really don’t use it all that much.

Thanks to all for their replies!

 

[loggin]

Update: I bit the bullet and paid around $2000 to have it fixed correctly. The mechanic checked the clutch while he was in there plus changed the seal, needle bearing, and various other small stuff.

Expensive, but at least I know it should be good for some time as I really don’t use it all that much.

Thanks to all for their replies!

Thanks for the update. Happy tracoring!!