JD 4110 New Purchase

[sbellis]

So I have been hunting for a subcompact for about a year now. I was at an auction yesterday and purchased a JD 4110 with 404 hours on it. It has a loader, good rubber, no damage, 4wd, mid and rear PTO. Everything works except the PTO lever is stuck (which I hear is a common issue when not used). The PTO spindle barely looks scratched so I feel with some penetrant I can hopefully get the lever to move and all should be fine. I bid 7900 and with tax and fees came out to about 9k. I think I overpaid a little, but see some online for 11-12k with the same features and same amount of hours. Also a kubota with a belly mower that was beat to **** and back went for the same price...so I feel I did good just because of that.

Just wondering what you all think about the machine itself, my price, and the issue with PTO lever.

 

[RalphVa]

So I have been hunting for a subcompact for about a year now. I was at an auction yesterday and purchased a JD 4110 with 404 hours on it. It has a loader, good rubber, no damage, 4wd, mid and rear PTO. Everything works except the PTO lever is stuck (which I hear is a common issue when not used). The PTO spindle barely looks scratched so I feel with some penetrant I can hopefully get the lever to move and all should be fine. I bid 7900 and with tax and fees came out to about 9k. I think I overpaid a little, but see some online for 11-12k with the same features and same amount of hours. Also a kubota with a belly mower that was beat to **** and back went for the same price...so I feel I did good just because of that.

Just wondering what you all think about the machine itself, my price, and the issue with PTO lever.

View attachment 550231View attachment 550232

Good tractor. My first one was a 4010. I traded it in after busting the U joint right off the engine at 9 years and 660 hours in July of 2013. They only gave me $5200 trade in for it. Only troubles I'd ever had were with turf front tires and busted turnbuckles for the 3ph arms. The turfs were just inadequate for FEL work, and the busted turnbuckles were my own fault for not tightening them properly. The industrials on yours should be fine.

After a very lemony 1025R in between, I now have a 2025R. I tell everyone not familiar with the weird 4010/4110/4115 naming that the 4010 would be a 2019E now. Your 4110 would be like a 2020F or so, not sure where between "E" and "R" it would fall. Absolutely no problems with the 2025R so far with about 120 hours on it. It has BY FAR the best FEL of the 3. Think yours has a 2nd hydraulic pump for the power steering and hydraulics; so, your FEL action should be a little faster than on the 4010. That was it's main problem.

Not sure what you can do about the U joint right off the engine. Don't think you can even get to it without dismantling a lot of stuff below the dash and the foot boards (I saw this is what they had to do at the shop where I looked at it when getting the 1025R). Then, it probably has no grease zerk. One just hopes that if the one fails on the 2025R that it won't be when I'm way down below in the brush or along the trails that I maintain along the creek. My neighbor has a bigger JD. He gave the 4010 a short tow from the back yard to beside our driveway and another time on the 1025R lemon from almost down at the bottom of the hill. I'll have to get him to tow me back again. NOTHING will move if that U joint flies apart.

Ralph

 

[RalphVa]

One thing that I'd recommend and did on both the 4010 and 2025R is move those ROPS lights to inside the ROPS. If you operate around any tree limbs or brush at all or maybe even an occasional protruding something off a post or gate, you'll bust one of those. Replacements aren't cheap. Just disconnect the wire connectors, move the lights and reconnect on the other side. An easy job that'll save you a bunch of bucks.

Ralph

 

[RyeThomas]

The John Deere 4x10 series are great machines. I have a 4310 and a 4510. Absolutely some of the best tractors JD ever made. Give her a little maintenance and care and she will last you a lifetime.

 

[al3]

Noticed it geared, not a hydro.. let us know how you like doing FEL work with it. I thought about going with gears but because snow blowing a lot was in the task list decided the hydro pedal would be appreciated.

Most of what follows is all contained in TBN posts of the past; here's a summary.

As Ralph said, if you work around trees and branches moving the lights on the ROPS inboard will help prevent lens breaks. And as you can see by the pic, replacement red lenses are cheaper than yellow......

Easy way to get the glow plugs engaged every morning is to pull out the PTO knob before you turn the key. Rotate the key for a few seconds, stop, push the PTO knob back in, then crank.

Dropped my drive shaft at 600 hours (9 years) and greased the U-joint. One bearing set had just begun to dry out. Not difficult, can do it from the bottom of machine, have to slide rubber sleeves held in place by hose clamps, then drive out a set of drift pins. Hardest part was manipulating the actual U joint to expose the needles to grease once it was on the bench. There's a good TBN post that gives details.

The battery is located near the coolant radiator; keeping battery corrosion in check is important. Inspect and fix if needed, then switch to a sealed battery.

I fried an ecu (the master switch box that integrates all the safeties/lockouts/fuel control) by letting my battery run down to zero (10y.o., sealed, at the end of its life). Worth staying on top of.

There is a magnet/screen assembly behind a housing below the rear PTO stub. When you change hydro fluid make sure you remove/clean.
Grease zerks on the usual steering joints, front axle, plus under the floorboards for the brake and clutch linkage.

Deere calls out a valve clearance adjustment at some point.

Deere sells a service manual on CD; if you're mechanically inclined its worthwhile.

Total non routine maintenance on mine in 14 or so years consist of a new water pump, a few PTO switches, one relay, one ecu, one rear axle leak, and a few replacement clevis pins.

Good luck with that stuck PTO lever-----hopefully something easy.

 

[RalphVa]

I couldn't find the TBN post to grease the U joint out of the engine on our 4000 series or the new 2000 series. Doubt the thing even has a zerk on it. I'd think by now that they ought to be able to put in a good permanent lube. Better yet would be to replace it with a circular disc made out of something that looks like a piece of an old tire. This is what our 1983 240D had out of the transmission. No problem with it over 25 years and 230k miles. There's hardly any flex needed, just like on the Benz.

Forgot about not having a glow plug light on the 4010. It comes at the ignition switch spot between off and start. Checked with an electrical light once. I just turned to that spot and counted. Need 3 seconds now and up to 6 or 7 in the winter.

Ralph

 

[RalphVa]

On the 4010, that switch underneath the seat to run the PTO with the seat up didn't work. I wire jumpered it and got it to work for a while, but finally ended up just using a tension cord to keep the seat back more or less against the ROPS. Do same on the 2025R.

Seems I recall the ones on the 4110s and 4115s worked.

Ralph