KM 454 Electrical problem

[Ronny_Clark]

Everytime i turn the key to the on position the 30A fuse blows. If i start the tractor from the starter and put a voltmeter to everything I get 12.5 at the battery,12.5 at the starter and nothing out of the alternator or voltage regulator. I checked all over the tractor and found no wires loose or skinned wires going to ground. Does the key have to be on to get some volts out of the alternator? Electrical is not my cup of tea so any advice as to what to check so I can get this up and running the way it should be would be great. Thanks in advance, Ronny Clark

 

[SPIKER]

ron:

I'm not real familiar with the KAMAs but I belive they should be like the JINMAs in as much then the alt has to spin up and the key to ON to get charge going. I'm not saying that it won't juice out when running with key off, but mine will not as the ampmeter does not deflect under running with key off and since it is an AMP meter that means no amperage is flowing out of alt. the current flow is what powers the amp meter so the gauge power has 0 to do with it. BUT you should be able to test for WHY the 30 amp fuse is blowing (95%) is due to glow plug shorts or incorrect fues wire in the 30 amp fuse spot. like I stated I'm not really familiar with the KAMA but check in the china forum for CHIP or scmalts and they can help.

MarkM /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[Soundguy]

I'd check your key switch.. in the chineese forum a few people were reporting bad switches that were shorting out.

Many setups won't charge if the key isn't on.. just depends on how the alternator excites.. etc.

Hook a test light across the 30 amp blown fuse, and disconnect everything from your key switch.. reconnect one wire at a time.. when you get the light to turn on.. you know you have a connection to ground... or the switch may be simple shorted to ground itself.. rather than a frayed wire.. etc.

Soundguy

 

[GRUMPA]

Ron,

Put that same question in the chinese tractor forum. You'll get some good results there. As mentioned earlier theirs been a few bad ignition switches (easy after market replacement). From the chinese forum you'll get links and first hand info on how and where to go for the fix/solution to your problem.

 

[Phred]

Ronny,

I am not familiar with your machine but on most 12V battery vehicles you should see about 14V across the battery when it is running. In fact this is usually an easy way to see if the altenator and voltage regulator are working properly.
So if you were getting only 12V when the thing is running that would seem to indicate a problem with the altenator or voltage regulator.

Electrical is not that bad if you know a few tricks.
1) get a electrical schematic for the machine so you know what is suppose to be connected to what.
2) get a Digital Multimeter (DMM). They sell them for ~$20 at many hardware stores and home centers. If you get one with an audible continuity /diode check feature it will save time.
3) Using the DMM set to "continuity" the meter should beep when you have a low resistance connection between the two leads. In other words if you touch the leads to each other the thing should beep. Use this to check and make sure all the electrical connections in the scehamtic are correct. This is done by putting lead 1 of the DMM at the first circuit point and lead 2 and the second circuit point. The DMM should beep.
4) Look for worn or broken wires.
5) If you are popping fuses something is likely shorted. You can use the DMM to track down the short by setting it to the ohm scale. By measuring and comparing to the schematic you should be able to track down the problem.

Good luck.

Fred

 

[Ronny_Clark]

Thanks to all so far. I have been out of town for a few days. Took the dash apart and noticed when I move the gauge cluster around the starter switch seems to work. Then i shut it off and move the cluster around and the switch wont work. Seems like there is a problem internally on the cluster.Will try again tommorrow to see what we can figure out. Cant locate a detailed wiring diagram so far. Thnaks again...

 

[SPIKER]

ronny I agree with what fred said, but be carefull reading ohms with the DMM as you can blow it up or the fuse easy if the battery is connected and you try to measure resistance with it. (very easy to do if you put it on HOT lead and then measure resistance to ground on some meters you will get a nice flash) as well as measuring current in the same way. most NEW meters this will not effect when using the ohm scale but it is wise to make sure power is off unless you are measuring for voltages. (power off by removing the hOT lead of battery.)

check the switch back side as some of the terminals can come loose. maybe if the thing keeps happening then buy and install the FORD switch. this may not HELP if there is a glow plug problem but can make the glow plugs work better if they are OK to begine with and cold starting then the lugs can be left ON for the cold starts.

MarkM