Tom:
I just abbreviated the name of the valve. It's a Water/Oil/Gas valve (WOG). brass body, full port. it's threaded 3/8" pipe thread, both ends. It's positive shutoff, 1/4 turn. I used nylon sprayer fittings in both ends, 3/8 pipe thread/ barbed 3/8 other end, and of course, 2 worm type hose clamps. The WOG valve is available at any good hardware store, TSC or Lowes for about $6.00. The nylon fittings are sprayer parts, available at any farm store like TSC. I used a full port valve as the bore is 3/8" so when it's open there is no restriction in the flow of hot coolant. WOG valves are commonly used by plumbers in natural gas lines as the kind that go to your furnace or water heater. They usually have teflon seats and stainless balls. When you install the valve, put a bucket under the radiator of the tractor on the right side facing forward. There is a hex shaped drain fitting on the bottom of the radiator, on the right hand corner. Take it out and let the coolant drain into the bucket. Don't forget to take the radiator cap off. After the coolant stops flowing, replace the drain plug and take a sharp knife and cut the line to place the valve as my picture shows. You will need to cut out a piece of hose about 1" long to make room for the valve and barbs. Install the valve, tighten the clamps and put the coolant back in. It will not all go in the radiator, so when it's full, close the cap, and top off the coolant resivour and warm up the engine. After the engine is warm, shut it down and allow it to cool off. The vacuum created by the cooled off antifreeze will suck the resivour down. Put the rest of the coolant into the resivour and you are good to go. The WOG valve is clearly marked as to on and off. Usually, when the handle is parrallel to the line, it is on. At 90 degrees to the line, valve off.
A far as the shrouds, I took a box knife and cut them from an old mudflap. You will have to cut openings in the right flap to clear the evaporator lines. The flaps are about 12 1/2" long by 4 1/2" wide. I attached them to the subframe that holds the evap unit, oil cooler unit and side panels in alignment. I used sheet metal screws (after drilling a pilot hole) and small flat washers. Be careful about the placement of the holes for the screws as there is not much clearance around the oil cooler and evap unit. Also make sure you don't run the screws into the cooler or the evap unit as well as the hoses for the oil cooler (Ihad to cut off the ends of 2 screws to allow for clearance). I believe that not only will your ac work better, you engine should run cooler too. The flap on the right hand side is spaced so that you can still slide the screen out from in front of the radiator to clean it.
I clean my radiator from the (fan) side) about every week too. The fines from the hay get through the screen and into the radiator and fill the passages between the cores. I take a hose and nozzle and squirt it from the fan side towards the front of the tractor (with the screen removed. I always get a lot of material out of the radiator and the evap unit. The oil cooler has no screen at all so it's a good idea to flush it too.
