Rear Finish Mower Land Pride 2560 on Kioti CK2510

[Buggs67]

I just picked up a Land Pride 2560 finish mower (for $500) because I now have a lot more grass to mow.

My questions are: I try to mow up and down the slopes but some of it I have to go sideslope or at an angle to the slope. Would I be better off with the FEL removed? I thought it would be good weight for traction but since it mounts up high maybe it raises my CG. With it off I'd also be more maneuverable. And should I get some suitcase weights to hang on the front?

And today while mowing (the level parts) my drive belt disintegrated. It appears that TSC and my local tractor dealers don't stock the belt. Anyone have a source for good quality belts? (I know I should have bought one to have on hand but it's my 2nd time using the mower.

Thanks for the help.

 

[Z-Michigan]

Removing the FEL will lower your CG, which is good, and move the weight balance rearward, which may be good. But it also means less total weight, which may be bad. Removing the FEL and adding suitcase weights would be great, but somewhat expensive.

If you know the dimensions of the belt, an auto supply store may have the same size belt in stock, or at least be able to order it quickly.

 

[Dave M7040]

I just picked up a Land Pride 2560 finish mower (for $500) because I now have a lot more grass to mow.

My questions are: I try to mow up and down the slopes but some of it I have to go sideslope or at an angle to the slope. Would I be better off with the FEL removed? I thought it would be good weight for traction but since it mounts up high maybe it raises my CG. With it off I'd also be more maneuverable. And should I get some suitcase weights to hang on the front?

And today while mowing (the level parts) my drive belt disintegrated. It appears that TSC and my local tractor dealers don't stock the belt. Anyone have a source for good quality belts? (I know I should have bought one to have on hand but it's my 2nd time using the mower.

Thanks for the help.

I have had a Landpride 2560 for decades. Kubota bought Landpride and can get parts for you.

The belt you need will be 158" long when measured on the inside or bottom of the V. It will be 161" long measured on the top side.

You will find both B158 and BP158 belts by a number of manufacturers such as Gates and Dayco. The cost will be about $40. I recently bought one on Ebay.ca

You want the belt with the P in the identification as it is the designator for kevlar cords which are much stronger.

Belt companies use two parts numbering schemes. The BP158 style is one each company uses but each company will have its own part number beside the BP158.

A BP158 made by anyone will be the same physical dimensions so you don't have to worry if buying a reputable brand name.

This link on ebay.ca will show the info and price in Canadian $ so it will be cheaper for you and it was being shipped across the border to get to me.

Dayco BP158 V-Belt | eBay.

I buy and use the cheapest shear bolt I can find as it is much easier to replace it than a busted belt.

Also, it you hit something like a rock, be alert for a change in sound as the blade retaining bolt will loosen and the blade free wheel. Ignore this noise and you will need a new blade and shoulder washer.


Suggest you post some photos of the mower on your tractor. Many new owners don't do it properly and can cause damage.

Rather than removing the FEL completely, consider just removing the bucket.

Dave M7040

 

[Buggs67]

I have had a Landpride 2560 for decades. Kubota bought Landpride and can get parts for you.

I buy and use the cheapest shear bolt I can find as it is much easier to replace it than a busted belt.

Also, it you hit something like a rock, be alert for a change in sound as the blade retaining bolt will loosen and the blade free wheel. Ignore this noise and you will need a new blade and shoulder washer.


Suggest you post some photos of the mower on your tractor. Many new owners don't do it properly and can cause damage.

Rather than removing the FEL completely, consider just removing the bucket.

Dave M7040

Thanks for the reply.

I called all the tractor dealers/services around here and none had it in stock. So I ordered it on the web; a B144 with kevlar.

I didn't hear it hitting anything but I'm wearing hearing protection. I think the belt was just old. This unit was sitting in the warehouse of the water/sewer authority for 2 years since they didn't use a finish mower anymore. IDK if or where there are shear bolts, but I agree; better to shear a bolt (and have replacements available) than damage shafts.

And as for removing the bucket, it's not a quick connect. I may be able to pick up suitcase weights at the next tractor fest.

 

[Buggs67]

I have had a Landpride 2560 for decades. Kubota bought Landpride and can get parts for you.

I buy and use the cheapest shear bolt I can find as it is much easier to replace it than a busted belt.

Also, it you hit something like a rock, be alert for a change in sound as the blade retaining bolt will loosen and the blade free wheel. Ignore this noise and you will need a new blade and shoulder washer.


Suggest you post some photos of the mower on your tractor. Many new owners don't do it properly and can cause damage.

Rather than removing the FEL completely, consider just removing the bucket.

Dave M7040

Thanks for the reply.

I called all the tractor dealers/services around here and none had it in stock. So I ordered it on the web; a B144 with kevlar.

I didn't hear it hitting anything but I'm wearing hearing protection. I think the belt was just old. This unit was sitting in the warehouse of the water/sewer authority for 2 years since they didn't use a finish mower anymore. IDK if or where there are shear bolts, but I agree; better to shear a bolt (and have replacements available) than damage shafts.

And as for removing the bucket, it's not a quick connect. I may be able to pick up suitcase weights at the next tractor fest.

 

[Dave M7040]

Thanks for the reply.

I called all the tractor dealers/services around here and none had it in stock. So I ordered it on the web; a B144 with kevlar.

I didn't hear it hitting anything but I'm wearing hearing protection. I think the belt was just old. This unit was sitting in the warehouse of the water/sewer authority for 2 years since they didn't use a finish mower anymore. IDK if or where there are shear bolts, but I agree; better to shear a bolt (and have replacements available) than damage shafts.

And as for removing the bucket, it's not a quick connect. I may be able to pick up suitcase weights at the next tractor fest.

Where did you get the B144 length from. If your mower is the 2560 I think it will be far too short.

The shear bolt is on the pto shaft casting at the mower end.

Dave M7040

 

[Buggs67]

The B144 was specified in the manual. I also got the LP part # and made sure it was a correct replacement. I ordered two belts and while it was hard to move the spring-loaded tensioner pulley I got it on with a little help. It works just fine.

I'll check out that shear bolt and get some replacements.

In my manual it says to not back up with the mower on the ground. Is this a real problem? I've been backing into tight spots and corners to mow them.

 

[Dave M7040]

The B144 was specified in the manual. I also got the LP part # and made sure it was a correct replacement. I ordered two belts and while it was hard to move the spring-loaded tensioner pulley I got it on with a little help. It works just fine.

I'll check out that shear bolt and get some replacements.

In my manual it says to not back up with the mower on the ground. Is this a real problem? I've been backing into tight spots and corners to mow them.

I think the backing up issue depends upon how well your 3 pt side sway links control the position of the mower. I have mine set quite snug so the mower cannot move about.

If you have the side sway links loose, your sideways movement of the mower as you back up can be hard on the pto shaft U joints.

Mowers are designed to be tilted slightly forward so the forward cutting edge of the blades is all that is in contact with the grass and the other cutting edge on the same blade goes over the top of the cut grass. When you back up you negate that feature.

Is there a name plate on your mower that you could photograph and post?

Dave M7040

 

[Buggs67]

Mowers are designed to be tilted slightly forward so the forward cutting edge of the blades is all that is in contact with the grass and the other cutting edge on the same blade goes over the top of the cut grass. When you back up you negate that feature.

Is there a name plate on your mower that you could photograph and post?

Dave M7040

I didn't know this; I bought mine from the water/sewer authority and I assumed they had it properly set up. I'll check this.

My side sway links are snug but not tight enough to bind when lifting the mower. I tightened them up when I noticed the side to side movement when backing.

By nameplate you mean the Model S/N plate? It has large Land Pride and 2560 stickers. I look again when I go to the workshop. I didn't realize it had a belt routing diagram until I cleaned off some dirt and grease.

 

[Buggs67]

Reading the manual it says the cutting edges should be the same height at front and rear or no more than 1/2" lower at front.