Loader Valve

[kub1]

I posted previously about BX transmission. O.K. as suggested I took wheel off and lubed linkage and all is well. It moves in and out of low range like new. Thanks for all comments.
Now I have another thing bothering me. The loader valve lost the detent for the float position. Someone suggested earlier that I take the valve apart. I am not comfortable doing this unless I have specific instructions. I need to know that springs are not going to fly when I unscrew the bottom two plugs that I can see hanging out the bottom. Anyone want to comment on this.
Thanks,
Jim
P.S. I have been around a long time as bikemiser, but somehow username got screwed up so I just started over with new registration.

 

[art]

I doubt that you would loose the spring unless you were alarmed over the balls that might fall out! It is not hard to do, but (don't you love that word) the reason you can't get the valve into float is the fact that a ball has fallen out of the detent slot. There are three balls that are spring loaded that set the detent. If and when you choose to do the job get a copy of the parts page from your dealer and when assembling add low temp grease in the cap before installing, nearly fill it and wipe up the excess grease after insalling if some came out.

 

[jamtuc]

Art,

I've been reading and learning for a few months now. You seem to know alot about hydraulics. I dont know if I should start another thread or not so forgive the breach in protocol......anywho I have a B1700 with FEL and was wanting to add a tree shear. A single cylinder add on. Will I need to go with a PTO driven pump or is there a less expensive approach? I've been told I could have overheating problems if I didnt use a PTO pump and an extra resevoir. I think the guy wanted to make a sale. I plan on building the shear. (At least thats the plan) I would appreciate any and all advice on the subject.

 

[638]

You won't have any more of an overheat problem with a tree shear than those of us do with a T&T. Go for it.

ron

 

[jamtuc]

Thanks,

I am still in the planning stage and should probably be on the hydraulics forum. I do appreciate it.

 

[sandman2234]

I would think that a shear project would be best placed in the built it yourself project box.
Until then, a suggestion to add to your think tank, would be to consider having the cutting blade(s) with the option of being able to rotate. The reason I think this would come in handy would be once you cut a tree down with it, being able to turn the cutter 90 degrees and cut it up while it is lying on the ground. If you only make it single plane usable, you will have to contend with full size trees, or drag out your chainsaw, which would defeat the need to build a shear.
I wonder if anyone has used a shear to cut light bushes and vines near trees that they don't want to cut? A bush hog won't fit everywhere, and a shear might clean up some of the smaller spots, provided that will readily cut briars, vines and other small items.
I purchased some "lawnmower blades" from a huge ebay seller with a zillion feedbacks. The picture showed a blade from a pulp machine (paper mill) so I took a chance and bought several. I think they are going to make a good blade for a shear should I ever decide to tackle that project.
David from jax