LT1000 starter solenoid getting hot

[Gator6x4]

After I read op's follow up post I feel confident you nailed it tomplum.
OP you should adjust the valves before doing anything else. A perfect battery and starter can't start the engine while valves are out of adjustment.

He could also change the air in the tires??????? I Don't think that will correct his problem either. The OP advised the solenoid is getting hot and had melted the rubber covering on the solenoid battery power terminal.

This indicates to me that sufficient voltage is getting to the starter.

It also indicates something is creating and high AMP draw causing the solenoid to heat up.

He advised he can spin the engine with the starter and sometimes he can't. That is an indication of when the starter get hot it slow down and quits and starts spinning again when it cools somewhat.

What the OP needs to do is remove the four screws holding the plastic flywheel screen. Remove the spark plug. Place a socket on the flywheel retention nut and spin the engine to insure it rotates freely. Remove the starter and smell of it, does it smell hot and burned? He also needs to take the starter to a starter repair place and have it tested. The unit will not self repair regardless of what I or anyone else posts on the internet.

 

[rScotty]

Yes, it can spin and still be weak - but it is unusual for that to happen. To much mechanical resistance - like a bad bearing - will steal some torque. The brushes can "miss" contacting some of the commutator slots either because the commutator is out of round or worn or the brush springs are weak and that will steal torque.
Or If a motor has gotten so hot that some of the windings are shorted internally in either the field coils or in the armature windings or both then it will draw more current but produce less torque.

But basically if it spins on the bench it is good enough to try.

Be careful spinning it on the bench. This is a DC motor, and so without a load on it there is nothing to limit how fast it can spin. It will gain RPM rapidly until something fails inside or it just comes apart.

Most "bad starters" are either bad starter solenoids, poor battery & cables, or worn starter brushes.

rScotty

 

[bkenobi]

The local shop that can test starters said that plastic gear versions won't work in their load tester. They recommended replacing the starter solenoid and motor which both makes sense to do if it continues to act up and for a place that sells them to recommend.

Since the solenoid got hot and they are cheap/easy changes I'll order one and swap it.

 

[Dman1981]

Replace cables go big or go home I use welding cable finer wire carries more load efficiently then fix hard starting

 

[Gator6x4]

Yes, it can spin and still be weak - but it is unusual for that to happen. To much mechanical resistance - like a bad bearing - will steal some torque. The brushes can "miss" contacting some of the commutator slots either because the commutator is out of round or worn or the brush springs are weak and that will steal torque.
Or If a motor has gotten so hot that some of the windings are shorted internally in either the field coils or in the armature windings or both then it will draw more current but produce less torque.

But basically if it spins on the bench it is good enough to try.

Be careful spinning it on the bench. This is a DC motor, and so without a load on it there is nothing to limit how fast it can spin. It will gain RPM rapidly until something fails inside or it just comes apart.

Most "bad starters" are either bad starter solenoids, poor battery & cables, or worn starter brushes.

rScotty

He can't spin the starter and check. He can spin the engine to ascertain if any drag is present in the engine. Simple test with a volt and amp meter can be made on the starter but the starter will have to be disassembled to thoroughly check or test it.

Checking a starter circuit

If the starter does not turn the engine although the car battery is in good condition, the fault may be a simple mechanical one or it may be an electrical one in the starter-motor circuit.

www.howacarworks.com

 

[Gator6x4]

Replace cables go big or go home I use welding cable finer wire carries more load efficiently then fix hard starting

His current cables are supplying enough voltage and amp to melt the contact on the solenoid, sound like they are big enough.

 

[bkenobi]

I replaced the solenoid. While at the shop i had them look at the starter. While they couldnt test, he said it looked new and to pull the cap, lube the bearing (brass ring in this case), blow any junk out of the windings if any, and reinstall. He also recommended a really good charge and maybe try jumping if still hard to start as a test.

After charging overnight the tractor started easily. So I'm not sure which step was the main culprit, but the combination appears to have resolve what i was seeing.

For reference, they had an opposed twin at the shop and my calibrated hand turning at the plastic cover seemed as though both mine and that one had similar torque requirements. I'll update if something changes but for now i think this is resolved.

On to the next repair.