Massey 35 Manifold

[birddog10]

I bought a 1962 Massey 35 this past summer that has a crack in the manifold. I purchased a new one that arrived today but I've been worrying for days about "what if...". What if I try to take the old one off and snap off one or more of the bolts? The tractor itself is in pretty good shape and the previous owner had it for 20 years or so and it was always stored inside. I replaced the muffler this past summer and was able to unbolt the old one without any problems. With that said, I still want to take all the precautions I can in removing this manifold. Any suggestions on accomplishing this with as little problems as possible would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.

 

[kebo]

If you can get a small wirebrush on the studs, try getting most of the rust off (if there is any). Then, get some PB Blaster soaking on them a few days before you use the socket. Also, before you start backing them out, try turning them in first very slightly (as if tightening) to help free them up. As soon as you get movement, try rocking them back and forth a little bit. Keep the PB Blaster on them, and then slowly back out. Hopefully they all come out with no problem.

 

[jimmysisson]

I second Kebo's tip, and recommend you use a 3/8 breaker bar rather than a ratchet, so it's easier (and you're more likely) to run the nuts in and out. Keep doing that all the way off if they feel iffy. Use six point sockets. Add a bit of ATF or oil to the threads as you go. Probably want to replace the nuts after that treatment, though the rusty originals may last longer! I seem to remember taking a 135 apart 30 years old and manifold nuts all coming off using that method.
Good luck, Jim

 

[birddog10]

Thanks for all the advice. One thing I was thinking about is using Kroil instead of BP Blaster or anything thing else for that matter. From other people's opinions I think I've ascertained that Kroil is the best of the best in penetrating lubrication for rusty/frozen parts. Would you agree with that? I can't find Kroil at any "local" store so I would have to buy it online, which isn't a problem.
I do like the idea of tightening them first to break the seal and then working them back and forth as I get them out.
Thanks,

B-Dog10

 

[RoyJackson]

I'll add two suggestions:
Use a 6-point deep socket...definitely not a 12 point! 12 point sockets are more likely to round off the corners.
Also, have a firewrench (Oxy-Acetylene torch or MAPP gas) handy, if possible.

Good luck!

 

[birddog10]

Thanks for all the advice and input. I got the manifold off with no problems:thumbsup: A couple of nuts were tight but after spraying Kroil on them they busted loose. However, it was a PITA getting the inside nuts loose as a ratchet wouldn't fit in and there wasn't much room to come in from behind. I managed, although one came off at about a centimeter turn at a time. Hopefully putting on the new one, with clean studs and new nuts won't be as difficult

 

[DJ54]

Might I suggest putting never-seize on the new studs, in the block, and on the outer threads. Ya' never know when you may need to take it back off..!!

 

[Soundguy]

ditto that. never seize and brass nuts for sure!!!

soundguy