Max 26 Radiator Fluid Flush - Question

[dec4trax]

First time Rad Fluid flush is due for service. The manual instructs to remove the ~1/2" hose that runs from the radiator to the back of the block to drain the fluid. The FEL frame blocks access to the hose clamp and we all know how those hoses like to "stick" once they have been clamped and heated. Has anyone ever installed a Prestone Flush Kit T adapter (or similar) on that hose so that the Radiator can be easily drained by unscrewing the drain cap ? Instead of getting fluid running in all directions, it can be drained right into a bucket. Anyone have an opinion on installing this T fitting and if this is a good idea or bad idea ? Not planning to use the entire flush kit..just the Tee. Seems like it makes all future Radiator flushing service much easier. Cant find anyone on this forum who has done this so I am a bit concerned and want to get some advice from the experienced mechanics before I try this and regret it later. Thanks

 

[dec4trax]

Well, thanks to all who responded. UPDATE: Access is very difficult with the FEL Frame, so I cut the By-Pass hose in the center rather than try and disconnect the hose by the firewall. None of the prestone T fittings would fit (to large) so after draining the rad, I spliced the line with a 5/16" copper T connector and hose clamped the barbed ends. On the T, I added a 5/16" hose about 3 inches long and another barbed connector with a pipe treaded end. Now, I can easily drain the rad by simply removing the cap, and the drain lines aims down (right into a bucket with no mess or rad fluid all over the garage floor).

If you are ready to change the fluid on your Max 26, this method works and makes the flush and fluid change very easy and mess-free. Go for it !!

 

[duffer]

Sounds like a neat solution. I used a "T" set up to drain my boom sprayer. Hadn't thought about using one on the radiator. My only concern with the T for the radiator hose would be the fitting/clamps holding up under the pressure when hot. Sounds like yours is holding up well.

 

[dec4trax]

I was also concerned about blowing the line off the fitting but gave it a try. Internal radiator pressures are typically less than 20 PSI (based on the cap pressure rating), and barbed connectors in that size range can hold up to 100-125 psi (based on my air compressor lines) so that seemed like a large enough safety factor even with variation due to heat and other factors. The Tees that came with the Presone kit I mentioned in my earlier post were all to large to fit inside the 7 mm ID bypass line. The 5/16 barbed Tee is a really tight fit and seems to be holding. I have about 10 hours on the machine since I installed the Mod and it has worked fine, but I will definitely be watching it. Any signs of distress and I will replace with a new hose, or look harder for a 5/16 Tee fitting with raised ends. All I know at this point is that this mod made changing and flushing the Rad Fluid almost as easy as changing the oil, so it will become an annual event (in compliance with the maintenance schedule) instead of an unpleasant and wet/messy chore I keep putting off until I have more time. I have attached a photo for visual confirmation.

 

[skipmarcy]

My 4110 came with a plastic tee and valve in the small coolant hose from the factory - never got to use it as a stick popped up years ago and broke it - did a "premature" radiator flush and new coolant !! The hose is 8mm - same as 5/16". I didn't even price the new tee/valve from Mahindra, just stuck a 5/16" barbed connector to reattach the hoses and tucked it away from harm.

 

[LittleBill21]

i did the flush a couple months ago. a single screw driver and raising the fel over the hood, and the line was off in about 10 seconds. not sure why you had so much trouble. it was prolly the easiest engine flush I have ever done. glad your kit worked out for you though

 

[AchingBack]

When I did a flush on my 2615, the entire cooling system did not empty.