3-Point Hitch MF 1250 - lower lift arms are 27" eye to eye, need to gain about 5"

   / MF 1250 - lower lift arms are 27" eye to eye, need to gain about 5" #21  
"If you look at carolinarider's pictures you can see his bushhog is really close to the rear tires, not too big of a deal for a bushhog but when you go to moving dirt with a boxblade it will pile dirt up to the wheel. "

I bought the unit new from a local MF dealer. It has always bothered me that the links that center the arms were so close to the tractor wheels, maybe 2 or 3 inches max, maybe less. Never considered a problem of having my box blade that close to the rear wheels. I may have to look at that.

I have given up using the box blade for any but, what I will call mass movement of things a few feet. I got a land plane for my roads and parking areas around the house and it is great. Having a way to easily change the angle of the thing would be the next thing to add, but that will have to wait.

I will look at the suggested lift arm. Thanks.
 
   / MF 1250 - lower lift arms are 27" eye to eye, need to gain about 5"
  • Thread Starter
#22  
Never considered a problem of having my box blade that close to the rear wheels. I may have to look at that.

I have given up using the box blade for any but, what I will call mass movement of things a few feet.

I've cut a few drainage ditches with mine, dragging piles of dirt around. For me the box never gets full because the dirt piles up and gets into the rear wheels before the box ever gets full...very frustrating and results in having to make more passes.

I drag the dirt into piles at the end of my ditch, then use the front-end loader to carry it somewhere else.
 
   / MF 1250 - lower lift arms are 27" eye to eye, need to gain about 5" #23  
Ok. I read the information on the image and then tried to work it out mentally, (some say thats a challenge for me).

The lifting arms are a fixed length. The link to the arm being lifted is a fixed length. So, with the actual arm doing the lifting at maximum height (rotation upwards) and the link from that arm a fixed length, moving the link position (i.e. the point where the connection arm is attached to the arm that it attached to the device/equipment) inward toward the tractor would seem to force the arm lower. This seems to be because the angle is now less between the hydraulic lifting arm and the actual arm being lifted.

Conversely, if I move the connection point outward on the arm connected to the device/equipment, the angel opens up and the arm connected to the device has to be moved upward to make the new connection.

Taken to the extreme, it would seem if the connecting link (the link between the actual hydraulic lift and the arm being lifted was placed at a horizontal angle, the the arm connected to the equipment would be almost vertical to make the new connection.

Could it be possible that the drawing is in error? Or maybe the drawing is implying just a change in lifting force and not discussing the change in lifting height?

I do understand that moving the connection out might gain more lifting force also (although the rational for that also escapes me). The picture also seems to imply that both arms connecting the hydraulics to the arms being lifted are adjustable. On my tractor only the right hand connect is adjustable. If both were adjustable it might give me the ability to lift the one device high enough but not the sub soiler.

Sometimes I struggle to understand geometrical situations. That's what this is. It's all about triangles.

I'll attempt to clear the confusion. Use your self closing storm door on your house if you have one? If not, use any self closing door, maybe the bathroom door at the tractor supply store.

Push the door open by using the handle. Notice how far you have to move your hand? Notice how much effort is required to open the door?

Now push the door open by placing your hand in the middle of the door. Notice how far you have to move your hand? Notice how much effort is required to open the door?

Now push the door open by placing your hand next to the hinge on the door. Notice how far you have to move your hand? Notice how much effort is required to open the door?

Is it apparent that the method that requires the most amount of hand movement also requires the least effort.

Same thing happens when you move the lift link on the 3pt arm. Go figure..... :)
 
   / MF 1250 - lower lift arms are 27" eye to eye, need to gain about 5" #24  
Sometimes I struggle to understand geometrical situations. That's what this is. It's all about triangles.

I'll attempt to clear the confusion. Use your self closing storm door on your house if you have one? If not, use any self closing door, maybe the bathroom door at the tractor supply store.

Push the door open by using the handle. Notice how far you have to move your hand? Notice how much effort is required to open the door?

Now push the door open by placing your hand in the middle of the door. Notice how far you have to move your hand? Notice how much effort is required to open the door?

Now push the door open by placing your hand next to the hinge on the door. Notice how far you have to move your hand? Notice how much effort is required to open the door?

Is it apparent that the method that requires the most amount of hand movement also requires the least effort.

Same thing happens when you move the lift link on the 3pt arm. Go figure..... :)

An excellent description of the issue with weight, force, ect. Just like Archimedes said, "give me a lever long enough and a fulcrum on which to place it and I shall move the world".

What I failed to consider the the fact that not only was the arm a lever but it was an arm. The tractor's hydraulic system rotates the lift arm through a set range or motion, so 20 degrees. Since that range of motion is fixed, no matter where on the lift arm you attach the link, the range of motion is the same. What should change is the point at which the lift starts.

I guess I am going to have to purchase the longer arms and do some measurements.
 
   / MF 1250 - lower lift arms are 27" eye to eye, need to gain about 5" #25  
Some side views to help with comprehension.

US20080035356A1-20080214-D00013.png


9ncutaway.jpg


P1300002.JPG
 
   / MF 1250 - lower lift arms are 27" eye to eye, need to gain about 5" #26  
Thanks for the pics Xfaxman!!! :)
 
   / MF 1250 - lower lift arms are 27" eye to eye, need to gain about 5" #27  
Thanks for the pics Xfaxman!!!
Your're welcome. Just amazing what a google image search will turn up. :)
 
   / MF 1250 - lower lift arms are 27" eye to eye, need to gain about 5" #28  
Your're welcome. Just amazing what a google image search will turn up. :)

Yep. On my phone. Not smart enough to do that. :)
 
   / MF 1250 - lower lift arms are 27" eye to eye, need to gain about 5"
  • Thread Starter
#29  

I called this place and they won't sell me just the lower lift arms, said they would have to sell me the entire assembly for $550.....not doing that!

Rural King has 32" ones made by SpeeCo for $45 ea, but they look flimsy and only have one hole in the center instead of three.
 
   / MF 1250 - lower lift arms are 27" eye to eye, need to gain about 5"
  • Thread Starter
#30  
Went ahead and bought a pair of 32" arms from Tractor Supply and they worked just fine. Hooked up the plow last night and had ample clearance between the front coulter and PTO shield, and the plow can be lifted much higher off the ground now.

One bonus is that the longer arms require the stabilizers to be extended more, which now keeps the arms from hitting the tires...before I had to wrap a bungee cord around the arms to keep them from swingining into the tires if nothing was hooked up.

I don't know why the tractor came stock with the 27" arms, as these 32" arms are SO much nicer to use. I just wish the 32" arms were of a thicker metal, but so far seem to be handing the plow just fine.
 
 
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