daveowenrobb
New member
Hi everyone,
a few weeks back I had a few burning electrical issues with my '65 MF 135 (Perkins Gas). Most was original wiring so having the manual and wiring diagram, I decided to re-wire everything.
Problem is, now she still won't start...please excuse the information overload here, I hope it helps someone point me in the right direction.
I've had the starter and alternator checked, both are good. The battery is fine and I keep it on a trickle charge when not in use. All my grounds are solid and I've checked continuity across all the new wiring, nothing seems out of place.
The alternator is a Delco Remy s12. There's a 10 gauge wire with an inline fuse running from the 'B' terminal on the alternator to the '+' terminal on the ammeter gauge. There's also a 14 gauge wire running from the same terminal on the alternator to the 3rd terminal on the voltage regulator. I don't have any juice flowing from the ammeter to the alternator along the 10 gauge wire when the 14 gauge wire to the VR is connected. If I pull that wire from the VR, I get juice between the ammeter and the alternator. So something's not right there but I have to admit I'm no electrical expert and only took this on because I have the manual and wiring diagram.
Previously the alternator didn't do much because the fan belt is slightly too long. I have the armature the alternator is attached to extended to it's max but the belt still slips on the flywheel so I'm in the habit of taking the battery back to the shop at the end of the night and putting it on the charge until the next use. Darn those belt's are hard to change, I got a replacement one but it seems I'm going to have to break the tractor apart to get the new one on as I can't get it past the front pump drive shaft.
As I need to get her running ASAP, I'm wondering if anyone can advise on how to run a minimal amount of wiring from the battery to the ignition and signal terminals on the switch, and to the starter and distributor, taking everything else out of the loop, just so I can get it back into the field for a few hours of work until I've more time to get to the bottom of this.
Thanks everyone.
Dave
a few weeks back I had a few burning electrical issues with my '65 MF 135 (Perkins Gas). Most was original wiring so having the manual and wiring diagram, I decided to re-wire everything.
Problem is, now she still won't start...please excuse the information overload here, I hope it helps someone point me in the right direction.
I've had the starter and alternator checked, both are good. The battery is fine and I keep it on a trickle charge when not in use. All my grounds are solid and I've checked continuity across all the new wiring, nothing seems out of place.
The alternator is a Delco Remy s12. There's a 10 gauge wire with an inline fuse running from the 'B' terminal on the alternator to the '+' terminal on the ammeter gauge. There's also a 14 gauge wire running from the same terminal on the alternator to the 3rd terminal on the voltage regulator. I don't have any juice flowing from the ammeter to the alternator along the 10 gauge wire when the 14 gauge wire to the VR is connected. If I pull that wire from the VR, I get juice between the ammeter and the alternator. So something's not right there but I have to admit I'm no electrical expert and only took this on because I have the manual and wiring diagram.
Previously the alternator didn't do much because the fan belt is slightly too long. I have the armature the alternator is attached to extended to it's max but the belt still slips on the flywheel so I'm in the habit of taking the battery back to the shop at the end of the night and putting it on the charge until the next use. Darn those belt's are hard to change, I got a replacement one but it seems I'm going to have to break the tractor apart to get the new one on as I can't get it past the front pump drive shaft.
As I need to get her running ASAP, I'm wondering if anyone can advise on how to run a minimal amount of wiring from the battery to the ignition and signal terminals on the switch, and to the starter and distributor, taking everything else out of the loop, just so I can get it back into the field for a few hours of work until I've more time to get to the bottom of this.
Thanks everyone.
Dave
