MF 165 brakes and power steering

[nothackingyou]

Had a little set back today, the power steering was working great. Was pushing some garbage down in the back of my truck with the loader and the power steering quit. I fussed with the adjustment a bit and got it to work a little,mostly left. Let it cool off and it works great. The fluid is dark brown to black so I am thinking I will change it out. Probably power steering fluid?

 

[nothackingyou]

I pumped out as much fluid as I could through the fill hole and refilled with ATF. I drove it around a bit and then pulled the reservoir housing, cleaned it out, sprayed off the screen and reassembled with more fresh ATF. Much better now, will probably drain and fill one more time to help get all the old fluid out.

 

[massey driver]

Had a little set back today, the power steering was working great. Was pushing some garbage down in the back of my truck with the loader and the power steering quit. I fussed with the adjustment a bit and got it to work a little,mostly left. Let it cool off and it works great. The fluid is dark brown to black so I am thinking I will change it out. Probably power steering fluid?

Sounds more like your going to have to pull the cylinder assy off and take the control apart clean it out and replace the O- rings inside the control valve. Just by spraying it down at the begining was just a short term solution.

 

[pmsmechanic]

While I'm at it, I noticed that the diff lock pedal seems to be stuck and no amount of prying will coax it to move. Anything I can do there?

I had a Massey 285 with the same problem. I sprayed the shaft with WD-40 where it goes into the transmission. Let it sit a few days and then started working on it tapping the shaft with a hammer. Once I had a little bit of movement I'd pull back up an the pedal with a short bar and then work on getting it back down again. I also regularly washed out the rust with shots of WD-40. After a while I had full movement and haven't had trouble since.

 

[nothackingyou]

Thanks, I have been trying this for a few days based on your suggestion but so far no luck. The pedal is stuck down which I should think means the diff lock is on. I haven't tried jacking it up or getting it stuck to test.

 

[pmsmechanic]

Thanks, I have been trying this for a few days based on your suggestion but so far no luck. The pedal is stuck down which I should think means the diff lock is on. I haven't tried jacking it up or getting it stuck to test.

Just keep tapping. I would tap in on the end of the shaft if you have room (otherwise just tap on the shaft) and the housing where the shaft goes into the differential housing. Every time you tap in those places it sets up a vibration between the two pieces which loosens up the rust particles.

Try prying up on the shaft or setting a jack under it and put some light pressure up on the dif lock pedal. Then start tapping on the shaft. It might take a few days but you'll get it. Tap till your tired of it and then go away for a while. While your gone, leave the pressure of the jack on the pedal. One time when you come back you'll notice that the jack is looser than when you left. Once there's a bit of movement the battle is won.

 

[nothackingyou]

Thanks for the idea of the jack!

 

[PatrickS2222]

G'day from Australia! Looks like you've scored a nice well-kept tractor - just a couple small issues to sort out, not bad for a machine of its age. I especially like how you have quad work-lights built into the fenders - that's given me a great idea! :laughing:

The only help I can give you on the power steering is that there may be a filter, or a screen in the oil reservoir, which becomes blocked after the tractor is used for some time, stopping oil supply to the pump - might be worth investigating. ATF is indeed the correct oil for it.

Regarding brakes - I think yours has the same brakes as my MF40 - dry disc inboard brakes; also has hub reduction drive boxes. The correct way to adjust these brakes is to wind up the self-locking nut on the front of each axle housing until you get a good pedal, but not to the point of the brake dragging. Remember, you will need to slacken off the pull-rods to allow the internal mechanism to return to its rest position. They are mechanically-applied self-energising twin-disc brakes - very good when they're working, but they must be dry and rely on three seals to not be leaking oil into their chamber. I had to dismantle one side of my 40 and renew brake discs and the three seals - until then I had a good pedal height but no friction! :laughing: The hubs have their own oil - check them and refill if required - don't run them dry.

Diff lock - Our 135's pedal seized years ago - we tied it up after getting it stuck in the engaged position. I gently use the steering brakes as I used to on our 35 - a diff-lock can steer you when there's a notable difference in rear wheel grip - be careful.

If you lift heavy bucketfuls - use a counterweight - while your tractor is even heavier than mine, you'll notice the difference in grip; but you might not notice the difference in stability ... until it's too late. I use a heavy slasher (bush hog) which makes it hook up and push, also adds weight to the rear wheels, helping to keep the machine upright and stable. Don't want you hurt, that's the idea. :thumbsup:

I'm wondering though, the front wheels and tyres would be 6.00-16, the correct size, so I must just be too used to our MF40 loader - has 7.50-16s.

Keep us updated on your progress - hoping for a win for you! :drink:

 

[PatrickS2222]

Doesn't seem to want me to edit my previous post, but here's a few pics I found of the brake I referred to - before, during & after:
The last is a pic of the huge rear gears and PTO drive shaft - utterly bullet-proof. You can only wear them out after around 50 years!

 

[nothackingyou]

Thank you Patrick for the very helpful information! So far the power steering is still working fine but no luck on the diff lock yet. I will keep tapping!