My Kubota GR2100 is digging up my lawn !!

[mpt1123]

Hello:
Last year I started to notice that wherever I'm mowing an area on the lawn that has a sharp curve, that the grass was starting to wear away. I thought it may have been because the ground was a little wet and that had the scalp rollers too low. I check everything and continued to mow along. This year the problem is getting worse. Everywhere I have to make a sharp turn the grass is gone.

I'm starting to think that the tractor, instead of turning the curve, is being pushed through the curve, cause the front wheels to tear up the turf. The GR2100 has Glide Steer so it has a pretty tight turning radius. Those wheels turn about 160 degrees - side to side.

Is it possible that there's a front end part that's worn or out of alignment?

The tractor is 7 years old with about 410 hours on it. I was also thinking that maybe I needed to get a new set of tires. They look okay, but I haven't been able to find any recommendations for how long a tire should last or how to determine - from tread depth - when to replace them.'
'
Other than that, the tractor runs perfect. No other problems. Cuts the grass great (except on the sharp turns).

Any ideas and suggestions are greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Mike

 

[mogwai]

Does this tractor have a rear differrential lock? If it is locked, that would push the front tires and bind the rear tires during a sharp turn.

 

[mpt1123]

Does this tractor have a rear differrential lock? If it is locked, that would push the front tires and bind the rear tires during a sharp turn.

I have no idea. How do I check and if I have one, how do I unlock it?

 

[David_Kb7uns]

The cables for the Glide Steer clutches on early models are known to fail or need adjusting. When turning in a tight turn the inside wheel is disconnected and allowed to free wheel. I am glad that I was able to get the last G2160-60 that the dealer had.

David Kb7uns

 

[mpt1123]

The cables for the Glide Steer clutches on early models are known to fail or need adjusting. When turning in a tight turn the inside wheel is disconnected and allowed to free wheel. I am glad that I was able to get the last G2160-60 that the dealer had.

David Kb7uns

Well, it looks like the cable to the left front wheel is broken. I can't tell where the break is, but I can tug on it from the right rear wheel bracket and it's obviously broken. I'll call the dealer this AM to see if they have the part.

I was hoping to try and fish the cable through the black plastic tubing, but my guess is that there will be an eyelet type connector on each end that would make that impossible. If I have to remove the black plastic tubing too, that looks a little bit tricky. It runs very close to the bottom front end of the motor and there's not much room.

Any tricks on how to do this?
Thanks,
Mike

 

[mogwai]

Just read this on COMPACT TRACTOR REVIEWS, "Weaknesses On our third transmission. Replaced 5 front drive lockout cables so far."

I'm guessing someone has experience with your problem. Good luck.

 

[mpt1123]

Just got the tractor back. Both glide steer cables were replaced. Cost was $347 for 4.09 hours of labor and $66 for parts. I've had this tractor for 8 years of mowing, plus installed a Johnny Bucket Jr. for plowing and mulching, and this is the first repair I've had to make. Actually,the glide steer problem started last year, it just took me a year to figure out what it was. All in all, I figure I'm doing pretty good.

 

[Mark Page]

Glad it's fixed. You may want to change your mowing pattern anyway. Next time make your first pass so it straddles the tire marks from your last first pass.

 

[Centre Ridge Farm]

Hello:
Last year I started to notice that wherever I'm mowing an area on the lawn that has a sharp curve, that the grass was starting to wear away. I thought it may have been because the ground was a little wet and that had the scalp rollers too low. I check everything and continued to mow along. This year the problem is getting worse. Everywhere I have to make a sharp turn the grass is gone.

I'm starting to think that the tractor, instead of turning the curve, is being pushed through the curve, cause the front wheels to tear up the turf. The GR2100 has Glide Steer so it has a pretty tight turning radius. Those wheels turn about 160 degrees - side to side.

Is it possible that there's a front end part that's worn or out of alignment?

The tractor is 7 years old with about 410 hours on it. I was also thinking that maybe I needed to get a new set of tires. They look okay, but I haven't been able to find any recommendations for how long a tire should last or how to determine - from tread depth - when to replace them.'
'
Other than that, the tractor runs perfect. No other problems. Cuts the grass great (except on the sharp turns).

Any ideas and suggestions are greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Mike

Hello:
Last year I started to notice that wherever I'm mowing an area on the lawn that has a sharp curve, that the grass was starting to wear away. I thought it may have been because the ground was a little wet and that had the scalp rollers too low. I check everything and continued to mow along. This year the problem is getting worse. Everywhere I have to make a sharp turn the grass is gone.

I'm starting to think that the tractor, instead of turning the curve, is being pushed through the curve, cause the front wheels to tear up the turf. The GR2100 has Glide Steer so it has a pretty tight turning radius. Those wheels turn about 160 degrees - side to side.

Is it possible that there's a front end part that's worn or out of alignment?

The tractor is 7 years old with about 410 hours on it. I was also thinking that maybe I needed to get a new set of tires. They look okay, but I haven't been able to find any recommendations for how long a tire should last or how to determine - from tread depth - when to replace them.'
'
Other than that, the tractor runs perfect. No other problems. Cuts the grass great (except on the sharp turns).

Any ideas and suggestions are greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Mike

Hi Mike, Wait until you read my posting last month on TractorByNet:

Kubota GR2000 & GR2100 Rear Axle Failures

The first generation Glidesteer rear axle/transmission was a faulty design. My problem started just like yours. Two years ago I had the same replacement of the two cables - and yes, they each operate a clutch to the inside rear wheel, so the turf is not torn up and the turn is doen in 3WD - two front wheels and outside rear wheel.

At about 330 hours I lost the drive capability of the rear wheels when turning right, but 3WD if turning left. On a slope it has become treacherous with only front wheel drive. I have had the GR2100 to Messick Farm Equipment and the story was to replace the entire axle/transmission at a cots of $4,000 + $1,000 labor. Having only $7800, this seemed nuts for 300+ hours.

On the advice of others, I purchased a shop manual and planned to have a mechanic tear the unit down. And I contacted another dealer and learned to NOT even think about repairing the current first generation axle unit. I learned there are TWO design flaws in that first generation Glidesteer. Fixing one problem invites the second failure or a repeat of the first failure. Kubota USA simply said "out of warranty" in a form letter, a second letter to the CEO has yet to be answered.

In summary the problem is a faulty engineering design and no willingness by Kubota to stand behind the poor design, but rather sell a complete new second generation design. My advice to you is unload - that is what I am going to do. Our farm has 4 Kubotas and we will be systematically moving back to John Deere.

Dean