New 1705

[jrm21]

Greetings. I just picked up a MF GC 1705 with FEL and a brush hog. Got to try it out a little and having great fun. This will definitely come in handy for work around the property.

Never owned a tractor before. Never even owned a diesel engine. Am feeling like a real newbie and would love any suggestions, tips or advice from those more experienced.

I have read through the manual and watched some YouTube videos. I have to admit that they all seem to assume some basic knowledge which I apparently lack.


Some things that I want to understand properly...

When using the brush hog on the PTO - manual says to have the engine in idle before engaging the PTO. Where is idle? Is that with the throttle all the way down? Or should the throttle/RPMs be higher? The guy who delivered it led me to believe the RPMs should be on the "540" mark, but I am thinking that is where the implement should be operated, not engaged.

Also, while using the rear PTO, I want to make sure that the throttle is supposed to be where the RPM gauge is at the "540" mark, while the foot pedal controls speed. (I realize that 540 is not the engine RPM)

Finally (for now), is there any problem storing the tractor with the FEL in the "up" position? It would be easier to fit everything in my garage. I have read different opinions on this. I see it done at plenty of dealers and job sites.

Any tips of "break in" period - dos/don'ts?

Thanks in advance for any help. Go easy on me - I'm new to this.

 

[EKUgrad]

Everyone starts out somewhere -- no worries.

Idle is just that -- low rpm. Engage at idle and then bring up to PTO speed. Try to keep your rpm's where the PTO runs around 540 when running the implements; this might mean giving it some foot throttle from time to time depending upon the application and tractor.

I was taught to never leave anything in the up position -- kids can get under there and get crushed while playing. I don't know if it is hard on cylinders or not, but it is not safe.

As for break in -- don't let it get hot and follow the manual's recommendations. Ha.

Best of luck with the new toy (necessary tool, I mean).

 

[jrm21]

Thanks for the info. I figured that idle would be low RPM... the delivery person told me to engage PTO at running RPM. It didn't sound right. Appreciate the confirmation.

The RPM gauge has a mark for 540, so I figure that is the suggested running position for rear PTO implements.

Good point on the safety issue. Hadn't thought of that. The tractor is in a locked garage with no chance of anyone going near it. Still, it makes sense to err on the side of caution. I will definitely store in the "down" position going forward.

On the safety topic... reading through the manual can be intimidating! Seems like more than half is safety warnings with "what can go wrong." Even though 99% of it is obvious, it still makes you think you purchased a ticking bomb instead of a tractor.

 

[AxleHub]

Thanks for the info. I figured that idle would be low RPM... the delivery person told me to engage PTO at running RPM. It didn't sound right. Appreciate the confirmation.

The RPM gauge has a mark for 540, so I figure that is the suggested running position for rear PTO implements.

Good point on the safety issue. Hadn't thought of that. The tractor is in a locked garage with no chance of anyone going near it. Still, it makes sense to err on the side of caution. I will definitely store in the "down" position going forward.

On the safety topic... reading through the manual can be intimidating! Seems like more than half is safety warnings with "what can go wrong." Even though 99% of it is obvious, it still makes you think you purchased a ticking bomb instead of a tractor.

Couple things:

The rear pto lever is marked as the 540. All that lever does is take it from the neutral position to the running position. Then the lever with 3 positions next to it is the enfagement/cluth lever that allows it to start turning.

The engine rpm determines the speed of the pto. To get to full 540 pto rpm you need to be setting the throttle to raise engine rpm to 2600 area for the gc1705. Slower engine rpm will reduce the pto rpm as well as produce less horsepower.

By the way . . Breakin is very individualized. Me . . I vary engine rpm, allow unit to cool down oftener, and vary tasks in 2wd and 4wd to alter load issues on various components. Personally I also change oil and filter the first time at 25 to 30 hours instead of waiting for 50. We all do it differently. I also look at the used oil on the first change for any pieces, shards, and how much shiny reflection is in the oil. Then I change it agaun at 50 hours and use regular schedule after that.

 

[jrm21]

Couple things:

The rear pto lever is marked as the 540. All that lever does is take it from the neutral position to the running position. Then the lever with 3 positions next to it is the enfagement/cluth lever that allows it to start turning.

Understood. My only 3pt implement at this point is a rotary cutter which operates at 540. I was told to leave the "540" lever alone (in the 540 position). Then use the clutch lever to activate/deactivate the PTO. Is this correct? Or should I switch the 540 lever to neutral when not using the rear PTO implement?

The engine rpm determines the speed of the pto. To get to full 540 pto rpm you need to be setting the throttle to raise engine rpm to 2600 area for the gc1705. Slower engine rpm will reduce the pto rpm as well as produce less horsepower.

That's what I thought. For the record, when I previously wrote having the RPM gauge on the "540" setting, I didn't mean 540 RPM. At the 2600 RPM mark there is another indication for "540" which I understood to mean the correct PTO power setting.

By the way . . Breakin is very individualized. Me . . I vary engine rpm, allow unit to cool down oftener, and vary tasks in 2wd and 4wd to alter load issues on various components. Personally I also change oil and filter the first time at 25 to 30 hours instead of waiting for 50. We all do it differently. I also look at the used oil on the first change for any pieces, shards, and how much shiny reflection is in the oil. Then I change it agaun at 50 hours and use regular schedule after that.

Cool idea. How difficult is it to change the oil on these machines? I used to do my own oil change on my cars, before they became rolling computer systems. I still usually change the oil on my ATV. With a new machine, however, I also wonder about warranty coverage... how do you prove you did you own scheduled maintenance?

 

[AxleHub]

Understood. My only 3pt implement at this point is a rotary cutter which operates at 540. I was told to leave the "540" lever alone (in the 540 position). Then use the clutch lever to activate/deactivate the PTO. Is this correct? Or should I switch the 540 lever to neutral when not using the rear PTO implement?

1. If it were me . . I'd always have my pto controls in neutral if for noother reason than safety . . Lets say the clutch got engaged for whatever reason . . . That rear pto wuld start spinning . . . Maybe with your hand near it (or the attachment).


Cool idea. How difficult is it to change the oil on these machines? I used to do my own oil change on my cars, before they became rolling computer systems. I still usually change the oil on my ATV. With a new machine, however, I also wonder about warranty coverage... how do you prove you did you own scheduled maintenance?[/QUOTE]

2. Changing the oil and filter is just like in your car, motorcycle, or atv. The manual explains where the drain plug is and the filter activity. I like to use a good quality conventional oil like Havoline . . myself. And I don't deviate from using that same brand. 5 qt. Jugs are often on sale plus a rebate so cost is low. And an early break in oil change tells you if there is an early problem or concern. When oil is "shiny" which break in oil always is bcause of the tiny metal dust . . . I see no reason to keep it pumping through my new engine for another extended period. Plus I don't know the quality of the original oil. It used to be that manufacturers used a cheaper oil at assembly. Whether they still do or not . . the time and small cost required to do an oil change for me . . is well invested.

 

[jrm21]

Both great tips. Thanks for the help.

 

[JWR]

Geez. I guess I'll throw in a couple of comments. First about the 540rpm PTO: That is just the standard nominal rpm of the pto itself produced at some other engine rpm (apparently around 2600 engine rpm as mentioned.) It is not critical, just standard/nominal/ordinary and recommended. The rear attachments are designed to work at that rotational speed with fairly loose tolerances. The only reason a manual or advisor says to engage the pto at idle is to minimize the sudden uptake going from rest to some rotational speed. Normally it is best/easier on your equipment to engage the pto at a low rpm and then add power after it is engaged to reach the full 540 pto rpm. I assume you also have a "belly mower" and a mid-mount pto. That pto is smaller diameter and runs at a different rpm than either the engine or the rear pto. That mid pto rpm is rarely mentioned but whatever it is will be matched to your belly mower at the same engine rpm that results in 540 to the rear pto. Nominal is nominal is nominal all 3 places. About leaving the loader "up" you shouldn't if you value anything underneath of it. The hydraulic pressure will eventually bleed off and the bucket and arms will come downward. Takes longer for a new machine but it will come down eventually. You said "I want to make sure that the throttle is supposed to be where the RPM gauge is at the "540" mark, while the foot pedal controls speed." No, they are not independent (if that is what you meant.). There is only one engine rpm at any moment which is controlled by the lever (which sets a minimum rpm) and by the pedal (which allows you to "give it more speed" when you want to do so via the pedal. It does not matter what position you leave the pto control in. Your tractor will absolutely NOT start with the pto engaged. Try it and see for yourself (which is the best teacher anyway.) If you happen to leave the pto engaged you will have to move it to neutral to start the machine.

 

[jrm21]

You said "I want to make sure that the throttle is supposed to be where the RPM gauge is at the "540" mark, while the foot pedal controls speed." No, they are not independent (if that is what you meant.). There is only one engine rpm at any moment which is controlled by the lever (which sets a minimum rpm) and by the pedal (which allows you to "give it more speed" when you want to do so via the pedal. It does not matter what position you leave the pto control in. Your tractor will absolutely NOT start with the pto engaged. Try it and see for yourself (which is the best teacher anyway.) If you happen to leave the pto engaged you will have to move it to neutral to start the machine.

I probably didn't word it correctly. Throttle stick controls rpm. Pedal controls rate of movement speed of tractor. Pedal has nothing to do with PTO speed.

What I was getting at is that pedal controls tractor movement speed in variable increments... push a little, go slow. Push all the way, go faster. I realize it is a silly question, but I wanted to make sure that the pedal is intended to be variable and is not intended to be all the way in or all the way out. Sort of like a clutch pedal on a car - you either fully engage or not. As opposed to the accelerator pedal on a car, which is intended to be used in a partially depressed manner. My understanding is that the tractor pedal is like the latter.


I do realize (and it is logical) that PTO must be in neutral before starting engine. My dealer told me to leave the rear PTO control alone (at the 540 setting) and use the "engage/disengage" lever. Another poster suggested keeping both levers in the neutral position (when not using the PTO) for safety reasons, which I am now doing. I don't have any mid-PTO attachments at this time, so that control has been in neutral.

The delivery guy showed me how to engage the PTO. He never stated a low RPM specifically, but did have the RPMs at or near full (where the rear PTO would be at 54) setting when he did so. No mention of idle or lower RPM. That's where that question came from.

My dealership is very good. I have come to realize that the guy who delivered my 1705 was not that good and certainly not familiar with this particular machine. What made me sure of this is when I found out what the two knobs in front of the seat were for (one adjusts mid PTO mower deck height and the other sets resistance for lowering the 3-pt hitch). He told me they were how you adjusted the seat. Based on that, I consider everything he told me as questionable.

Thank you for the response.

 

[JWR]

OK. Understand. I was thinking you had a separate throttle pedal on the floor beside the forward and reverse pedal. I realize now that you don't. My Kubota here at home has no throttle pedal on the floor board either. My slightly larger Kubota up at the farm does have a floor-located accelerator pedal. Yes, absolutely your forward/reverse pedal is a variable control, not an "all or none." That is pretty standard among all hydrostatic drive tractors. It allows you to run in whatever range you want at full engine rpm and yet move as slow as you wish or to stop and go. That's the big advantage of hydrostatic drive. I was helping a friend who is buying a GC1705 and both it and my Kubota BX2200 are that way. Glad to hear you have a good dealer. They are worth their weight in gold! Sometimes it's service, sometimes parts and sometimes just questions and answers. A good dealer with a knowledgeable service dept. is darn near worth selecting a brand of tractor on that basis. Good mechanics are so hard to get (and keep) so I think all of them hire helpers off the street almost to do low skilled things.
By the way, about the knobs to set "drop speed" for your hitch and hydraulic mounted things and the other one for deck height adjustment: Not sure about the 1705 but my Kubota has to have the deck all the way up to take load off of that height adjusting knob before you turn it. I found out the hard way and broke the knob on mine trying to turn it while the deck was lowered. A 30 some dollar lesson. Your users manual should tell you if that matters on yours.