New to me 240D

[dirttoys]

On a separate note - When I'm at 2k RPM's (which sounds fairly high rev'd to me) and use the front bucket, the engine seems to struggle. Am I just at too low of an RPM? It just seems like I'm constantly having to adjust the throttle in order to keep the engine happy. I've changed the fuel filter and bled the air out. Not sure what else to check except for the hydraulic pump itself?

Seem to see these weak on power threads quite a bit.

Most of the time folks point to air or fuel, which makes sense. New stuff seems to be 'revier' than old stuff, it is always a bugger to know if you have problem if you don't know how it should work

If you know of one like it handy, compare them, if you have someone handy that knows how they run, have him/her test it.

New filters never hurt. If you ask my wife she has some alleged evidence I was wrong once, but, if you put it on a dyno, then change the oil and get a 5% difference, I will send you a crisp new hondo.

Does it bog when going uphill in a high gear? Does adding weight to the loader change/make it worse? Any pivot points binding (you just pulled it partway off right?). With your luck with bolts, don't tare into the pump just yet

All kidding aside, let us know what/if you find anything, and thanks for passing back your solution on the bolt, you would be amazed how many times that doesn't happen.

Best,

ed

 

[CoyPatton]

As this is a new to you tractor, and shows signs of poor maintenance — broken bolt un-repaired, I would drain hydraulic fluid and clean internal screen/filter and replace the screw on filter—if equipped.
It is normal to get a bit of bog as you force hydraulics to work against the stops as the relief valve has to activate at that point. This puts a pressure back up on the pump forcing the motor to work harder.

 

[bmaverick]

suparmansf I sent you a pm describing how my YM240 idles.

bmaverick - I've run Tractor Supply's "Traveller Premium" 15W40 oil (or any name brand at similar price) for near two decades and don't see anything wrong with it. 15W40 was recommended by the Yanmar Authorized Dealers (and gray importers) who posted here in the early days of this forum.

In the modern automotive world, and maybe with modern John Deeres, thinner oil is recommended for fuel economy and perhaps cleaner air, but I'm not convinced that relates to our 40 year old rigs. Straight 30 weight and a 5 minute warmup to get it circulating is what's in the owner's manual. I think 15W40 is a sufficient modern replacement. 10W-30 and Full Synthetic are likely also suitable but I'm not convinced they are essential.

@California We had been on this 10W30 vs. 15W40 prior and you had agreed that you should switch over to the Yanmar recommended oil vs. what a dealer tells you. I had posted those charts for both Yanmar and John Deere showing the same.

Do recall, I did share how Japan Industry Standards (JIS) have different engineering requirements to engine fabrication and crank case oil passages.
Yes, Yanmar, Satoh and Mitsubishi are were ahead of their time with the 10W30 usage beginning in the early 70s.

Yes, the manual is correct for straight 30 to be used as well, however, not at low temps before freezing.

Likewise, the hydraulic fluid should be Yanmar TF500A or John Deere J20C.

 

[ponytug]

Like @CoyPatton, I have seen a number of older tractors with questionable, or unknown, service histories have unbelievably clogged and gunked up intake screens. With a tractor of unknown or unreliable service history, I would start with draining the hydraulic fluid, cleaning the screen, changing the filter if it exists, and then refilling with the correct oil. (As @bmaverick points out above.)

You never want gunk circulating in a hydraulic system.

Once that is done, you have given the hydraulic pump a chance to function properly, and can go from there.

I would not underestimate the impact of oils that are the wrong viscosity, especially in a well engineered engine. Not only does it generate more work (if too thick), but it probably isn't lubricating as well as designed. 30W oil is quite a bit thinner than 40W oil, as in nearly half. (NB: The vertical scales below are not linear.)

Comparative oil viscosities

All the best,

Peter

 

[bmaverick]

From the John Deere info on the 50 Series (aka Yanmar YM Series)

From the Yanmar site

Yanmar RS - AF Series oil info. Using engines like the F & FX Series based on the YM Series.

Hydraulic fluids

John Deere 50 Series manuals (aka Yanmar YM Series)

 

[California]

Ok, I'm convinced.

But before converting I need to use up the NAPA diesel oil I bought, when they closed out their traditional product that wasn't suitable for the smog gear on the latest diesel pickups.

At least I'm using J20C spec oil for UTF, and for the backhoe hydraulics (where 303 was in the first edition of its operator manual).

Thanks for providing those details.

Next question - is there a good quality 10W30 oil as inexpensive as Tractor Supply's Traveler Premium?

 

[supermansv]

This group is awesome, really appreciate all the responses/suggestions.

I did change the hydraulic fluid and washed out the screen while I was addressing the bolt issue. It was fairly clean, much to my surprise. That said, I haven't run it much since I got the bolt fixed, maybe I'll put a little bit of time on it and see if my results change.

Also, there are a few other Yanmar's for sale around me. Maybe I'll check out one of their tractors and compare .

 

[runningbird]

maybe I missed it if already noted. But you really won't know about your 3pt until you put a load on it. At least stand on the arms while you lift and see if it is truly smooth.
also if you have quick connects on your loader, take them off and clean them. Or at least disconnect and reconnect.

 

[bmaverick]

Ok, I'm convinced.

But before converting I need to use up the NAPA diesel oil I bought, when they closed out their traditional product that wasn't suitable for the smog gear on the latest diesel pickups.

At least I'm using J20C spec oil for UTF, and for the backhoe hydraulics (where 303 was in the first edition of its operator manual).

Thanks for providing those details.

Next question - is there a good quality 10W30 oil as inexpensive as Tractor Supply's Traveler Premium?

TSC 10W30 diesel is good. I have Blains Farm and Fleet out here with basically the same stuff, just their label. Likewise Rural King too.

The Shell Rotella T5 would work. Yes, finding good deals is always a plus.

@California Possibly blend the 15W40 with the 10W30 at the next oil change till you use it all up. Your location typically doesn't see fridge cold temps in CA, thus the 15W40 blending would be just fine for all year use.

We all tend to us the J20C because it's so easy to find, where as the Yanmar TF500A is special order or not available in your area. If the winters get worse in my region due to this Grand Solar Minimum, I may have to use J20D for winter snow plowing in the machine. In winter high altitude, J20D is the way to go. BUT, it's best to have a machine that's 30Hp or better at those elevations because of the Hp drop.