boggen
Elite Member
- Joined
- Feb 22, 2011
- Messages
- 3,824
- Location
- Trivoli, IL
- Tractor
- SSTT (Sideways Snake Tain Tractor) and STB (sideways train box) tractor, dirt harvester
20 to 30HP max.
no cab = cab and trees = no more windows, lights, or anything else on the outside of the cab. if you cut the low branches then no more walking up and getting what you can without using a ladder to get peaches, if they were regular trees, ya cut lower branches so you can mow under them with a cab. but fruit trees. meh. sounds like bad idea.
backhoe = maybe a backhoe if you plan on taking out the peach trees or need to deal with stumps, and/or putting in gas lines, electrical lines, water lines, if needed for landscaping.
250foot driveway *meh* not that long. take 30 minutes to an hour with FEL (front end loader) to move some deeper drifts and get snow off to a pile so it is not stacking up right were you walk.
4x4 to deal with mud, landscaping, working the FEL (front end loader)
finishing mower deck (so you can mow the lawn with it)
rotatory mower (bush hog) so you can mow taller weeds if need be, though 2 acres... take your time and just beat up the finishing mower. and just take half passes, and raise deck all the way up on first mow, then come back lower deck and continue taking half passes if you need to cut down taller weeds.
rear blade for 3pt hitch to grade rock driveway and deal with snow, and landscaping yard
box blade with rippers for 3pt hitch to level yard out, deal with rock driveway, move some dirt / rock around
it would be extremely nice (must have for me) is split rear brakes (a foot peddle for left rear tire, and a foot peddle for right rear tire) so i can turn faster, and/or get myself unstuck.
chain hooks on top of FEL bucket (general duty bucket) not a mulch bucket
tooth bar possibly for FEL bucket if need be to help with digging with FEL bucket.
tires... doubtful R1 / ag tires would be good for you, (to much lawn/grass), i doubt R4 / industrial tires would be good for you, again only a handful of acres. best bet for tires i would say standard lawn / turf tires. and if need be for snow get a set of chains.
double check manual and see about filling wheels with a fluid for added weight. both for stabilty and traction.
make sure the Roll bar behind driver seat does fold down. so you can get up under trees better, and also be able to get it into a garage. roll bars tend to be high, and most garage doors may only be 7 feet tall lucky 8 feet tall.
TNT (top and tilt) for 3pt hitch. a TNT, replaces the top turnbuckle on 3pt hitch with a hydrualic cylinder, and tilt replaces one of the turn buckles on one lower side arms of the 3pt hitch. it makes for on demand adjusting of ground engaging attachments so much easier and faster. (rear blade, box blade)
3pt hitch quick attach, there are a few types out there, from "pats easy hitch" to upside down U shape quick attach, to a triangle shape, to some others. pat's easy hitch, with telescopic lower lift arms would be my own personal preference. it allows you to get backed up to equipment and stretch out the lower lift arm to attach to both side of equipment, then back up and get things locked in, then attach the top link.
you may want to get check chains and *doh* forgot the name sway bar /chains for 3pt hitch.
DO NOT use FEL bucket as a manlift. as in someone getting in bucket and lifting them up into the trees to pick peachs. one OPPS and they drop to the ground.
=============
to state it to state it. skidsteer could be a choice, they turn on a dime and can get into some tight spots vs a tractor. they will cost more for machine itself, and the attachments cost 100 to 300 more per attachment for same equipment in 3pt hitch style for a tractor. but *shrugs* you can get finishing mowers and like for them as well if you wanted to mow. though a cheap riding lawn mower might be easier for regular mowing.
==============
if you need something bigger to do a given job, either higher it out, or rent a bigger machine. a sub compact tractor is more than enough i do believe for what you need.
40 to 50 HP range is overkill. if you were dealing with livestock, and dealing with round bales, dealing with larger acerage to use a rotatory mower (bush hog) on. needed the extra FEL lifting capactiy, needed the extra HP at the PTO ya ok. but for 2 acres your house, and 2 acres for other family member house. *meh* smaller tractor will take longer to get the larger jobs done. but the smaller size and turning around and backing up space needed for smaller tractor will more likely keep things moving along fast enough. smaller tractor = able to trailer it with smaller size pickup truck and trailer.
to state it another way, you get the FEL, 4x4, 3pt hitch. and possibly a backhoe. those alone will make night and day difference over a generic riding lawn mower and getting stuff done. and a 20 to 30 HP tractor are geared just for folks like you with only a couple acres.
no cab = cab and trees = no more windows, lights, or anything else on the outside of the cab. if you cut the low branches then no more walking up and getting what you can without using a ladder to get peaches, if they were regular trees, ya cut lower branches so you can mow under them with a cab. but fruit trees. meh. sounds like bad idea.
backhoe = maybe a backhoe if you plan on taking out the peach trees or need to deal with stumps, and/or putting in gas lines, electrical lines, water lines, if needed for landscaping.
250foot driveway *meh* not that long. take 30 minutes to an hour with FEL (front end loader) to move some deeper drifts and get snow off to a pile so it is not stacking up right were you walk.
4x4 to deal with mud, landscaping, working the FEL (front end loader)
finishing mower deck (so you can mow the lawn with it)
rotatory mower (bush hog) so you can mow taller weeds if need be, though 2 acres... take your time and just beat up the finishing mower. and just take half passes, and raise deck all the way up on first mow, then come back lower deck and continue taking half passes if you need to cut down taller weeds.
rear blade for 3pt hitch to grade rock driveway and deal with snow, and landscaping yard
box blade with rippers for 3pt hitch to level yard out, deal with rock driveway, move some dirt / rock around
it would be extremely nice (must have for me) is split rear brakes (a foot peddle for left rear tire, and a foot peddle for right rear tire) so i can turn faster, and/or get myself unstuck.
chain hooks on top of FEL bucket (general duty bucket) not a mulch bucket
tooth bar possibly for FEL bucket if need be to help with digging with FEL bucket.
tires... doubtful R1 / ag tires would be good for you, (to much lawn/grass), i doubt R4 / industrial tires would be good for you, again only a handful of acres. best bet for tires i would say standard lawn / turf tires. and if need be for snow get a set of chains.
double check manual and see about filling wheels with a fluid for added weight. both for stabilty and traction.
make sure the Roll bar behind driver seat does fold down. so you can get up under trees better, and also be able to get it into a garage. roll bars tend to be high, and most garage doors may only be 7 feet tall lucky 8 feet tall.
TNT (top and tilt) for 3pt hitch. a TNT, replaces the top turnbuckle on 3pt hitch with a hydrualic cylinder, and tilt replaces one of the turn buckles on one lower side arms of the 3pt hitch. it makes for on demand adjusting of ground engaging attachments so much easier and faster. (rear blade, box blade)
3pt hitch quick attach, there are a few types out there, from "pats easy hitch" to upside down U shape quick attach, to a triangle shape, to some others. pat's easy hitch, with telescopic lower lift arms would be my own personal preference. it allows you to get backed up to equipment and stretch out the lower lift arm to attach to both side of equipment, then back up and get things locked in, then attach the top link.
you may want to get check chains and *doh* forgot the name sway bar /chains for 3pt hitch.
DO NOT use FEL bucket as a manlift. as in someone getting in bucket and lifting them up into the trees to pick peachs. one OPPS and they drop to the ground.
=============
to state it to state it. skidsteer could be a choice, they turn on a dime and can get into some tight spots vs a tractor. they will cost more for machine itself, and the attachments cost 100 to 300 more per attachment for same equipment in 3pt hitch style for a tractor. but *shrugs* you can get finishing mowers and like for them as well if you wanted to mow. though a cheap riding lawn mower might be easier for regular mowing.
==============
if you need something bigger to do a given job, either higher it out, or rent a bigger machine. a sub compact tractor is more than enough i do believe for what you need.
40 to 50 HP range is overkill. if you were dealing with livestock, and dealing with round bales, dealing with larger acerage to use a rotatory mower (bush hog) on. needed the extra FEL lifting capactiy, needed the extra HP at the PTO ya ok. but for 2 acres your house, and 2 acres for other family member house. *meh* smaller tractor will take longer to get the larger jobs done. but the smaller size and turning around and backing up space needed for smaller tractor will more likely keep things moving along fast enough. smaller tractor = able to trailer it with smaller size pickup truck and trailer.
to state it another way, you get the FEL, 4x4, 3pt hitch. and possibly a backhoe. those alone will make night and day difference over a generic riding lawn mower and getting stuff done. and a 20 to 30 HP tractor are geared just for folks like you with only a couple acres.