Oily Clutch!

   / Oily Clutch! #11  
What year is your 8N or which steering gear box you are rebuilding? The 8N had two, the later one was the better one to rebuild. The pre- mid-'49 had four bolts:
1689006915367.png

The later, mid-'49 to '52 one only has two bolts:
1689006977088.png

I can show you where to install a grease zerk to help you grease it when I know which one. I definitely agree that cornhead grease is better than oil for the gear box.
 
   / Oily Clutch!
  • Thread Starter
#12  
You need to check the bearing behind that seal to make sure it's not shot as well. seals don't wear like that without excessive shaft wobble.

One thing you don't have to worry about is rust as the interior of the bell housing is well rust proofed... (y)
I've just replaced all the transmission bearings as there was a noisy one. There wasn't any perceivable play but the input shaft needed replacing too as the 'race' in the gear was a bit pitted.
 
   / Oily Clutch!
  • Thread Starter
#13  
What year is your 8N or which steering gear box you are rebuilding? The 8N had two, the later one was the better one to rebuild. The pre- mid-'49 had four bolts:
View attachment 810415
The later, mid-'49 to '52 one only has two bolts:
View attachment 810416
I can show you where to install a grease zerk to help you grease it when I know which one. I definitely agree that cornhead grease is better than oil for the gear box.
It's a '51. I've seen a video about drilling and tapping the r/h side bolt on the column at top bearing level. I'll do that when I've got some corn grease and make a decision on it's use. I won't know until I see it's consistency. Thanks.
 
   / Oily Clutch! #14  
It's a '51. I've seen a video about drilling and tapping the r/h side bolt on the column at top bearing level. I'll do that when I've got some corn grease and make a decision on it's use. I won't know until I see it's consistency. Thanks.
1689157008487.png
 
   / Oily Clutch! #15  
Kinda late answer but if you go through the trouble of a split, there is not too much additional cost to remove the big spline and replace the bearings and the seals. If you don't, oil seeps into you clutch pack and you are splitting the tractor again. I don't hink it cost me even $400 to replace all the seals, bearings, clutch plates and springs and now I shift and pull with a smile like this. (plates plus items 1, 3, 5 and maybe 6)
)
60683.jpg
 

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