Operating Front Loader and/or Rear Links

[NickN]

Hi all,

I have a 35 with front loader - the loader rams operate through a graduated turn valve (nearest the rams) and an OPEN/CLOSED cock between that and the Imola operating lever and return pipe.

The issue is that with the weight of a transport box on the back, if I lift this up, then open the valves to operate the loader, the box lowers back down, in other words there seems no way to be able to operate the front loader with a box attached on the back (and in the air), whereas without the box attached the loader works ok (but of course the steering is very heavy indeed). In fact with the box attached the only way to lift the front loader is to fully lift the transport box, once fully lifted the loader start to lift, but as soon as I let go of the operating lever the box crashes back to earth each time.

I have a feeling I might have read something somewhere about needing to hold the link arms up or down, or something along these lines, could anyone tell me what I'm doing wrong? I'd be very grateful!

A new old tractor owner

 

[ovrszd]

Hopefully an owner will chime in with the answer.

I seem to remember a discussion on here about this and the answer was the 3pt arms were held in place. In your case, the up position.

Welcome to TBN!!!

 

[shaeff]

HI Nick,

The most likely problem is that you've got some bad o-ings (particularly in the stand pipe- easy fix!) or that your 3pt lift cylinder is worn, which isn't terribly difficult to remedy either, albeit, awkward.

Best and easiest solution for now is to install a drawbar under your rear axle and simply set your weight box onto it. A chain to secure it may not be a bad idea.

Another option would be to install an SAE type A hydraulic pump onto the mounting boss on the front of your machine. It'll be behind the lower cover under the grill. You'll have a much better working loader this way, and you can use the f hitch in conjunction instead of one or the other as you currently do.

Welcome to the forum!

 

[shaeff]

Here are a few pics of the mounting boss on the front of the MF 35 (mine is a 35 utility, hence the yellow paint but is very similar to your machine)

The adapter and shaft are connected to my crank pulley, which is designed to run a front pump. You'd need a new pulley (unless yours has three or four threaded holes for the adapter), an adapter, shaft, and pump. This is the best way to run a loaded off a MF35. The internal pump is only 4-4.5 gallons per minute, so it'll work, just slowly.

External pump operates much faster.

 

[NickN]

Here are a few pics of the mounting boss on the front of the MF 35 (mine is a 35 utility, hence the yellow paint but is very similar to your machine)

The adapter and shaft are connected to my crank pulley, which is designed to run a front pump. You'd need a new pulley (unless yours has three or four threaded holes for the adapter), an adapter, shaft, and pump. This is the best way to run a loaded off a MF35. The internal pump is only 4-4.5 gallons per minute, so it'll work, just slowly.

External pump operates much faster.

Now that's an idea I'd not considered at all, and might very well give the best results, so I'll look into that further, thank you for that!

And thanks for the welcome to the forum.

It seems that hydraulics on the old MFs are something of a challenge!

 

[shaeff]

Now that's an idea I'd not considered at all, and might very well give the best results, so I'll look into that further, thank you for that! And thanks for the welcome to the forum. It seems that hydraulics on the old MFs are something of a challenge!

Definitely worth consideration, and will definitely give you a much more usable and enjoyable loader experience.

When it comes to the internal hydraulics, there are a few guys here that are REALLY good with them. (shona13 comes to mind)

I rebuilt my internal pump myself and replaced the lift cylinder/piston rings but not after making a few mistakes along the way. Live and learn!

My rear hydraulics will hold my 650lb flail mower up in the air with the engine off for a few hours before it sinks to the ground. Well worth the effort!