Paint quality

   / Paint quality #11  
I have decades of experience in this field, so I know what I'm talking about. It's cheap paint just like all the others.

I can live with the color fading, but I can't live with the paint not protecting the metal from corrosion. The undercoats, (the metal prep, and primers), is where they all skimp the most. Irving's photo is a classic example of this.

Manufacturers are using a lot of direct to metal paints to save money, and that isn't going to protect anything that is outdoors very well.

The competition in the subcompact market is pretty strong, more reason to keep costs down. And, reds are the most expensive to make. Quality paint in red, is shockingly expensive. In automotve paint, I've bought 1/2 pints of red that were almost $200. And, that's just the color. you still need chemicals to add to it to spray it. And clear to top it. There are aerospace level coatings that exceed that price point by a lot.
I've dealt with parts depts as well as mtx records in large regional airline and paint/corrosion prevention measures a a HUGE item.
and you can tell the quality is a lot better.
 
   / Paint quality #12  
I've dealt with parts depts as well as mtx records in large regional airline and paint/corrosion prevention measures a a HUGE item.
and you can tell the quality is a lot better.
Aerospace coatings are better. But, not a lot better than a good quality automotive finish system. With the cost of aerospace coatings exponentially higher, they really aren't worth it, unless your painting a private jet.

I've used them over the years, and I don't find a need to go that nuts.

I have painted a lot of aircraft parts, even helicopter parts. Never had any issues getting automotive paint to hold up.
 
   / Paint quality #13  
Mine is doing ok only because its always parked inside and i used to wax it with Mothers. But no-most tractors are not painted with good quality paint-that includes implements. My box blade which is powder coated included-however, they will still outlast me.
 
   / Paint quality #14  
I suspect you're right, Ray. When I started to sand mine off (prior to deciding it was worth it to have it blasted instead), there wasn't much evidence of primer. I'll put a photo below that shows how extensive the rust "creep" had become -- look at the metal discoloration; I was getting more & more large flakes peeling off as time went on, very annoying to an OCD person like me! :)

The other thing I felt was that the relatively sharp edges of the original piece of steel made it so paint on the 90 degree edges was extremely thin-- that's where the problems started. The nice thing about the media blasting was that all the edges became rounded a bit, an improvement, I think.

I thought I'd be able to re-use the old stickers, but it wasn't worth it -- for less than $30 I got a new set from AGCO. The red powder-coat paint isn't a perfect match, but it's close enough for me. Result was I'm happy, and it shouldn't have any paint peeling & rust issues again... at least that one part!

BTW -- you can see this was done in 2017; I got the tractor in Feb of 2008.

View attachment 719943 View attachment 719944 View attachment 719945
Nice job. The cover is different on yours than mine. Mine is just one big opening up there for the joysticks and stabilizer levers. I like yours better.
 
   / Paint quality #15  
The biggest factor in keeping your tractor from corroding, is the same as with your car. Keep it dry.

Don't do things like wash it and put it in the garage, where moisture will remain in places for days.

Manufacturers don't like to spend time doing things like rounding the edges of metal after they cut it. The reason that is important is, sharp edges don't take paint. Try painting the sharp edge of an old knife, and you will see that even after 50 coats, you can still see through it, on the sharp edge. Couple that with a cheap paint, that has no undercoat system, and it's inevitable that it's going to fail like it did for Irving.
 
   / Paint quality #16  
I have decades of experience in this field, so I know what I'm talking about. It's cheap paint just like all the others.

I can live with the color fading, but I can't live with the paint not protecting the metal from corrosion. The undercoats, (the metal prep, and primers), is where they all skimp the most. Irving's photo is a classic example of this.

Manufacturers are using a lot of direct to metal paints to save money, and that isn't going to protect anything that is outdoors very well.
Ray how do you know that all the tractor manufacturers are not using quality paint and finishes as you have stated here? I'm not here to challenge you just curious.
 
   / Paint quality #17  
Ray how do you know that all the tractor manufacturers are not using quality paint and finishes as you have stated here? I'm not here to challenge you just curious.
It's a highly competitive market. And, paint materials are very expensive.

There is also often pressure from government agency's to comply with air quality regulations.
 
   / Paint quality #18  
It's a highly competitive market. And, paint materials are very expensive.

There is also often pressure from government agency's to comply with air quality regulations.
How is it that the automakers can produce products with quality paint but the tractor manufacturers can not?
 
   / Paint quality #19  
How is it that the automakers can produce products with quality paint but the tractor manufacturers can not?
The question should be, how is it that automakers produce products with quality paint systems, but tractor manufacturers chose not to?

The primary reason would probably be road salt forces car manufacturers to protect them better. A typical direct to metal paint system would not do well at all protecting the thin body panels on a car from corrosion.
 
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