Removing FEL hose that is not a quick disconnect

[SouthernSky]

I have a Woods 1009 loader on my 1996 Kubota L2650. Since new (27 years) I have never removed the loader but now have to for additional clearance to work on several front end leaks.

One of the three hoses is not a quick disconnect on either end. I'm thinking it was intentional since there is a bolt under it which does not give enough side clearance for the wider QD.

The other two have a QD at the bottom of the engine so they won't leak when I disconnect.

To remove the loader can I just separate the hose and put a cap on it (do they sell them?)?

 

[ptsg]

Looks like the loader valve comes out with the loader in that tractor. In those cases, make sure you turn what they call the control screw in order to complete the hydraulic circuit. Otherwise you'll be deadheading the pump and potentially damage something. Once you connect the loader, you rotate the screw again.

And yes, you can get caps for the hose and for the block.

 

[LouNY]

Just looking at what you have posted in the picture.
I would hazard a guess as to the three lines.
One is a supply to your loader valve,
another is the power beyond for your 3 point.
And the last is likely the return to tank (reservoir)
My guess is the the two with the quick connectors are your supply and power beyond, those two will need to be connected together with the loader removed or your hydraulics will be dead headed and could cause serious issues depending upon where the relief valves are located.

 

[Harry in Ky]

While that is probably a good way to proceed, I would caution you to study the system before disconnecting ANYTHING. You have a pressure out, pressure in, and sump return line there. The two pressure lines MUST be somehow connected in a loop when the loader valve is out of the system or you will probably damage something in the tractor. You can do whatever you need to with the engine off, but the loop must in place when you start it back up.

 

[LouNY]

Looks like the loader valve comes out with the loader in that tractor. In those cases, make sure you turn what they call the control screw in order to complete the hydraulic circuit. Otherwise you'll be deadheading the pump and potentially damage something. Once you connect the loader, you rotate the screw again.

And yes, you can get caps for the hose and for the block.


View attachment 855605

or this

 

[SouthernSky]

Looks like the loader valve comes out with the loader in that tractor. In those cases, make sure you turn what they call the control screw in order to complete the hydraulic circuit. Otherwise you'll be deadheading the pump and potentially damage something. Once you connect the loader, you rotate the screw again.

And yes, you can get caps for the hose and for the block.


View attachment 855605

I am really glad you said that. I saw nothing in the Woods manual about the control screw. Thank you.

Now I just have to find out where to buy caps.

 

[SouthernSky]

So I need to buy caps of some sort and a separate hose that I can connect between those two disconnects at the bottom?

 

[LouNY]

So I need to buy caps of some sort and a separate hose that I can connect between those two disconnects at the bottom?

Looking at your photo and drawing ptsg posted I'm going to agree with Harry in Ky, proceed carefully.
Look for lettering on your control valve for the ports and on your block, trace your lines carefully.
You picture and the line drawing posted to me do not agree. Per the line drawing the supply pressure and the return to system (power beyond) seem to be in line, were you have the quick connects kind of diagonal.