Grading Road Maintenance Advice

   / Road Maintenance Advice #31  
A rear gage wheel or tail wheel will make a huge difference in ease of use and outcome.

 
   / Road Maintenance Advice #32  
 
   / Road Maintenance Advice #33  
With that Land Pride 3 way manual adjustable back blade the OP is on the right path - in my opinion. If that's the blade I think it is, the end caps, trailing wheels, and even hydraulic control can be added later if wanted. Right now I'd just start with that good blade with removeable end caps, add a trailing wheel when you see the need, and later on hydraulic controls are a pure luxury .... very nice.

Yes, you can sure do a lot simply by back-dragging the FEL bucket. In fact, we do almost all our work on shorter driveways that way. Much better for tight work. I believe that the blade on that Land Pride can also be swung around completely backwards for backdragging longer stretches.
rScotty
 
   / Road Maintenance Advice #34  
I only have a 20 HP CUT but have developed (with patience and practice) techniques that allow me to usually do a very respectable spreading/grading job of a 12 wheel truck load of crushed stone in about 1 hour per load.
By that I mean spreading to a 3 or 4 inch evenly distributed layer.
My 'tools' being my FEL and a crappy 60 inch back blade.

While only small time in the road/drive game I never hesitated to quote 1 hr per load, however if at a distance I'd add a bit for travel
time.

OK, I tilt my FEL and push ala dozer taking minor 'gulps' going as far as I can,
get another load and repeat until there is no more pile to push.

Usually I'll pull back some nearside of the pile and drive over the top and start pushing a manageable load foreword and repeat.
When roughly spread out I manually reverse my back blade and push backwards to create a nice even finish.
I never push from the backside, always from the front.
(even did that when I had a tracked 'dozer)

For my last pass I speed up and drive forward at a faster clip which makes the drive look just like it had been all hand raked.
 
   / Road Maintenance Advice #35  
I fought my driveway for 35 years,, because I did not have correct ditches,,,

This is what happened to the driveway EVERY heavy rain,,

Driveway%20Before_zpskm6khqed.jpg


Yea, I could put it back with my equipment,,

Driveway%20After_zpsru26ndcg.jpg


WfDSNFI.jpg


Even with a fleet of tractors,, I could not maintain the driveway,,,

sDxlghh.jpg


Attachments?? I have them ALL,, rake, blade, box, loader, and landplane,,

YRgT6vt.jpg


I had to correct the ditches,, and install 4 culverts,, it was done last summer,,

7R1LVeJ.jpg


clqsrL1.jpg


eLLP6AX.jpg


ei9bPwW.jpg


Here is the sticker on the guy's truck,, he is a dirt wizard,,,

I5EK2Aq.jpg


I am almost at a year now,, the driveway is still perfect,, even with some recent heavy rains,,

Doing the driveway "right" is far better than ANY attachment,,,
 
   / Road Maintenance Advice #36  
True that.
 
   / Road Maintenance Advice #37  
Controlling storm water has always been the key to maintaining gravel lanes...it's simple, make the water run OFF the road and not DOWN the road...and make sure there is a place for the water to go...

It only takes a few sticks and leaves to start a big enough ditch blockage that allows runoff to flow onto a lane that in the right downpours can cause major washouts...I have to keep reminding the few neighbors I have not to blow their driveway leaves into the ditches...!
 
 
Top