Running Hot(er)

[RBsingl]

Thanks for the diesel details Rodger.... I knew was not same as for a gas engine, but the service manual does mention injector timing as potential issue for overheating. I guess individual injector problem would be more of a power issue (not in my case). After giving the cooling system bit more of a lookover, may still have to get a more diesel savvy person to take a look.

 

[RBsingl]

Rip,

Over fueling (leaky injector, poor spray pattern) will cause the engine to run hotter but normally with that you will see a lot of smoke and also have poor running. Late injection will also increase heat but that is a pump timing issue that generally results from incorrect adjustment and doesn't just happen in operation. You would also notice smoke and a drop in power with this issue.

But basically a diesel engine is like a campfire You have plenty of air and the only way to make more heat is to throw more logs on the fire. A lot of air and a little fuel with a diesel results in cooler combustion.

The cooling system would be my prime suspect (thermostat may not be fully opening, restriction in radiator tubes to buildup, water pump not delivering full flow, hose delamination, etc.)

Rodger

 

[Rip]

Thanks again Rodger.... no smoke or power loss, so will concentrate on cooling system some more. Cheers, Rip

 

[5030]

Old post but I'm wondering if the radiator is clean and free of obstructions like dry grass? On my farm use Kubota's, I have to blow out the radiators at least once per day and sometimes more often, depending on the amount of debris floating in the air.

 

[Rip]

Yes, I learned early on to keep close eye on the rad screen and blow it and the rad itself clear often especially in dry conditions. Did a full cooling system 'flush' while back, but looked good before and after.
Also rigged up a rubber flap discharge chute to divert the grass further from the machine and thus less likely to get sucked back into the engine bay. The F-3680 still seems to run bit hotter than the 2880, but still in a 'normal' range and no other symptoms lately.
Grass pretty dormant last couple months but will get going again in another 6 weeks or so. Will keep close eye on everything.

Cheers, Rip

 

[5030]

I'm converting my big Kubota M9's from mechanical drive fans to electric push pull fans and removing the mechanical fans entirely and will most likely do that to the F series when I get it this spring as well. My only maybe issue will be alternator output as a large push-pull electric fan does consume some amperage. On the plus side, removing the mechanical fan removes the parasitic horsepower loss as well. I'm doing it primarily to eliminate the chaff buildup when I run hay and having to stop and blow out the rad often. With an electrically reversable fan, I can reverse the fan to push the air instead of suck it in and that will purge the chaff and stuff out of the radiator and in the case of my M's, the air to air charge air coolers and the hydraulic oil coolers as well.

I'll still clean them here at the farm with a Radiator Genie but I will eliminate most of the cleaning I now have to do and not have to carry my cordless blower behind the seat all the time as well. Kubota's (at least mine) are sensitive to clogged or even partially obstructed radiators and I'm always watching the temperature gage, especially during hot weather because it has a bad habit of creeping up un noticed.

I figure I'll pick up at least 5 horsepower removing the mechanical fan on my tractors.

Automakers figured that out some years ago and why vehicles today mostly come with electric radiator fans, especially with the smaller engines.

I'm going to size the fans to the shroud opening and bracket them to it and I'll install a manual reversing switch on the dash so I can control the direction or disable it entirely as the situation presents itself.

 

[Rip]

Sounds interesting.... may help the clogging situation if reverse-flow ONLY done briefly where dust/chaff can not be pulled into the open (and unscreened) engine bay.

My air filters tend to choke up under same conditions that clog the rad screens, so I pull them and knock/blow dust from them every day routinely. The 1505 engine has a flow restriction warning devise on the intake, but the 1105 does not.... but still can only see it with engine cover open.

 

[Richard001]

I'm converting my big Kubota M9's from mechanical drive fans to electric push pull fans and removing the mechanical fans entirely and will most likely do that to the F series when I get it this spring as well. My only maybe issue will be alternator output as a large push-pull electric fan does consume some amperage. On the plus side, removing the mechanical fan removes the parasitic horsepower loss as well. I'm doing it primarily to eliminate the chaff buildup when I run hay and having to stop and blow out the rad often. With an electrically reversable fan, I can reverse the fan to push the air instead of suck it in and that will purge the chaff and stuff out of the radiator and in the case of my M's, the air to air charge air coolers and the hydraulic oil coolers as well.

I'll still clean them here at the farm with a Radiator Genie but I will eliminate most of the cleaning I now have to do and not have to carry my cordless blower behind the seat all the time as well. Kubota's (at least mine) are sensitive to clogged or even partially obstructed radiators and I'm always watching the temperature gage, especially during hot weather because it has a bad habit of creeping up un noticed.

I figure I'll pick up at least 5 horsepower removing the mechanical fan on my tractors.

Automakers figured that out some years ago and why vehicles today mostly come with electric radiator fans, especially with the smaller engines.

I'm going to size the fans to the shroud opening and bracket them to it and I'll install a manual reversing switch on the dash so I can control the direction or disable it entirely as the situation presents itself.

I don't know where you are getting your fans, but if they are automotive type fans, keep in mind that while they are indeed DC voltage motors, every automotive fan I have encountered has a diode in it that is intended to shunt voltage feedback to the controlling relay to prevent arcing of the relay contacts.

You may want to be sure that the fans that you get do NOT have this diode in it.

Richard

 

[5030]

Not using a relay at all. Using a 3 position latching toggle switch reverse, off, forward. Or in my case suck or blow...