Shed Plans

[newbury]

Reviving this thread because I need plans for a 256 sq ft shed - county raised the limit for permits from >150 to >256
Eddies comments seemed most pertinent:

The problem with every shed plan that I've looked at is they cut too many corners. Either to save a buck on materials, or because they can use fewer pieces of lumber because there isn't any code. The thing they all have in common is they show you how to build it using the minimul amount of lumber.

I'm not looking for minimal but I'm not building a Taj Mahal.
I want it storng enough to park my B7610 in w/ the FEL on. Most implements will live outside.

I've never seen a building built too strong, or anybody going broke over a couple hundred dollars more in lumber. I have seen buildings and sheds falling apart becuase studs were 2ft apart and there didn't use double top plates. The rafters where not sized properly and the sideing didn't have any structual integrity to stop racking. They also use tiny nails and never seem to have any metal bracketry. All cheap things that do not add much to the cost of a small building, but all critical to the long term life of the building. Then they don't use headers with jack studs for the windows and doors, and I've seen corners that where not tied together.

That describes many of the "packages" I've seen by "custom builders". floors of 2x4 16" OC. 29 gauge roofing. 4x4 skids.

But the most common thing that I've seen in those buildings that are falling apart is the lack of a good foundation. Skids are only going to last so long. Concrete blocks sink, and it's never the same all over. Stuff gets under those buildings and builds up, animals make homes in there and they die. Bugs love it under there and the termites will eat through the floor joists before you even know they are there.

I'm wanting to build on skids because it will cost several times as much as all the rest of the materials just to get a concrete pad poured in there.

If you want a quick and affordable building, it's very hard to beat what you can get one already done at Home Depot or Lowes. You can build it for less in materials, but it's going to take you a week of solid work to get it done, and most of us can make more money going to work then we can save by building it for what you save by doing it yourself. I'm a contractor, and I have a good idea of what it costs to build anything. If a client wants cheap, I'm not the guy for them, and I tell them to buy it already built.

I'm retired and it's going to be a father-son-son project.

If you want it to last, then you need to take the same steps that go into building a house. Concrete foundation, studs on 16 inch centers, proper headers, two top plates and the proper fastners. Use OSB on the exterior siding, wrap it and then cover with a siding. Deck the roof in OSB, use 30 pound paper, use flashing and nail on your shingles.

Do it right and be proud of it,
Eddie

We are looking for railroad ties for the skids and a lean-to metal roof. I have a passion against OSB.

The first shed I built here (self designed w/ gambrel roof 10x15) lasted from 1986 to about 2006 until I got tired of painting the siding and replaced it with Hardiboard. It is due for a new roof.

Most of the DIY plans I've seen just end nail the boards together, I had planned on using joist hangers.

But - there seems to be about a zillion sources of plans to buy and it's difficult yo tell the good from the poor.

So any more suggestions for plans for a good 12x20 size lean-to type shed? We want to use the roof for solar hot water and solar panel to charge cordless tools.

 

[wrooster]

Reviving this thread because I need plans for a 256 sq ft shed
I want it storng enough to park my B7610 in w/ the FEL on.
I'm wanting to build on skids because it will cost several times as much as all the rest of the materials just to get a concrete pad poured in there.

Your B7610 alone weighs about 1500lbs dry, and presumably you have a FEL and/or MMM to go with it, so it's not hard to imagine that your daily-use weight would be on the order of 2000lbs. I think you should rethink your "no-slab" approach. With typical residential-grade framing and subflooring approaches, eventually you are going to have issues. Meanwhile, the footprint of your shed grows larger because you need a ramp to get the tractor up and into the shed.

I would get some quotes and IDEAS from local masons on how to pour a slab and apron, so you have a stable, sturdy foundation for the project. Otherwise, you are simply building on top of a platform -- and buying deep PT'd joists along with hangars and blocks to make for a long term stable platform is going to bring your cost to parity with concrete flatwork. 256 sq ft is 16x16, that's a lot of PT'd wood for joists.

Ignore the bluestone on the apron shown below -- that's aesthetic adder -- look at the utility of having a proper work and storage surface inside the shop. The utility of having the apron in front of the structure is HUGE -- your projects can be done out in the daylight and/or your implements can be dropped on a flat surface and out of the mud. Also, you should treat 16x16 as a WORKSHOP and not just a storage shed. T

wrooster

 

[newbury]

Reviving this thread for a comment on "Cheap Shed" plans from the website of that name.

Yup, their cheap. My son, who is getting the shed built on my 1/2 acre lot he's living at, convinced me to buy the plans. For $10 I got a pdf of some generic layout instructions, some hints like use pressure treated if you've got termites, screws are better, and not much else besides something to refer to and a lot of links to the website w/ videos on "how to".

Perhaps one of my problems is that I'm the grandson of a master carpenter who started me building houses as soon as I could sort nails. I spent three summers building houses and a lot of it is almost natural to me. I look at a joist span and know it needs a 2x6 16" OC.

 

[GLyford]

Then it sounds like you already know how to stick build, and either hand frame rafters or use trusses.

A shed ain't nothin' but a house without the fancy bits. All the rest like use flashing to keep the water going downhill around your doors and windows and such like are the same. All you have to do is figure out how much of the fancy you don't need...

I'm willing to bet you could just get a bundle of studs, a few longer pieces for wall plates, however many trusses or rafters you think you need, and a bundle of sheathing and end up with something that will make you happy in short order, with no plans at all. Just making it up as you go along on the plates. "Do I want a window...? Maybe a little further over. Need a door here. The rest of this is just plain old wall..."

 

[Dr_Zinj]

... An even better reason is the tax man. He's got me by the short hairs already, I don't want him getting any ideas.

THAT might be the biggest consideration. Oregon is known for having a rather unfriendly overall tax structure. And taxes will exceed both savings and costs in the long run.

Property taxes are one of the biggest reasons that few people plan for, or build for, the long run in the U.S. Even houses aren't long term investments, they just depreciate a bit slower than trailers.