Shed/Shop

[BigGG]

I'm planning a shop/shed to have a place to store my tractor and junk/stuff and work on it and do general piddling. I'd like to bounce my ideas off you folks.

It would be in north Mississippi, so little snow and less than 1' frost and no local code for a non-residential space. I may DIY some of it, very little. I've removed trees and stumps and have a fairly flat site, but haven't checked it with a level. Soil seems to be loess down to 4 feet or so.

I'm planning 30'x64' on a slab, top of concrete 6-8" above grade with a 16" wide grade beam down 8" below grade.

Then 16" c-c stud wall using 10' 2x4 wood studs. LG SmartSide on outside. Wood 4:12 trusses on 4' centers, 2x4 purlins and metal roof. 12" overhang all around. 2 - 10'x10' sliding doors and 1 - 2'8x6'8 personnel.

I'm thinking/hoping to get a shell done relatively cheaply that I could finish myself later if I decide to. Comments?

 

[jaxs]

Call J&I Mfg in Madill Ok. 580-795-7377 about a bolt up or weld up steel building kit with plans. You get benefit of professionally engineered and lower cost over wood. Unless you have extensive experience framing and cheap source of lumber I advise pole barn/post frame instead of stud walls. Trusses are set 5'oc in North Texas where snow load isn't high. As for slab,soil type dictates footings and other considerations. There's inexpensive foil faced bubble wrap insulation that's worth installing if you can't afford foam.

 

[Rustyiron]

Sounds like a good plan!
One thing that I've become a very big proponent of is larger overhangs, both on the eaves and gables.
It's obvious, but the further away from your walls you move your "drip line" the better and dryer your building stays... forever!
I recently built a building with what I thought was an "extreme" overhang at 40" at the eaves and 20" in the gables. The wood siding doesn't get wet in the rain.

 

[duffer]

Just FYI...if you use 2x6's for the walls, you can space them 24" apart. (actually takes less wood that way) and you give yourself more space b/t studs to store stuff until you finish it off.

I'd also suggest have a 6"-12" heel on your roof trusses to give you a little extra room for your sliding doors to clear the eves. (or make your walls 12')

 

[BigGG]

Just FYI...if you use 2x6's for the walls, you can space them 24" apart. (actually takes less wood that way) and you give yourself more space b/t studs to store stuff until you finish it off.

I'd also suggest have a 6"-12" heel on your roof trusses to give you a little extra room for your sliding doors to clear the eves. (or make your walls 12')

Thanks for commenting. But a 2x6 costs almost twice what a 2x4 costs, so it doesn't make up for the savings. Also, the LP siding requires 16" maximum spacing.

Good point on the trusses and doors. I'm drawing it up now to make sure I have enough height.

 

[dodge man]

I agree, sounds like a good plan and great size. Do you think you’d ever want a car hoist? If so 10 feet might be a little short if you enclose the ceiling.

 

[BigGG]

I agree, sounds like a good plan and great size. Do you think you’d ever want a car hoist? If so 10 feet might be a little short if you enclose the ceiling.

No, I'm getting a little long in the tooth to be doing serious mechanicing. My nephew has a 2post in his shop. I'm not sure his ceiling height, at least 12'. My BIL has a 30x50 with 10' height that works out ok. I don't know if I'll eventually close the ceiling. Sure would be more comfortable.

 

[paulsharvey]

I would price manufactured steel roof trusses. They aren't that much money, very fast to put up, lighter than wood, and already have pre-spaced purlion brackets. I know you said no permits, which is good, but I might double the studs at the truss locations and of coarse double top plate. Consider a sill seal or something to keep the bugs out, maybe termite angle.


I would also consider a larger walk door. Maybe a 48" door, for when you don't want to open everything up, but want to move stuff around

 

[3Ts]

Your personnel door really should be a minimum of 36". You can go wider if you want but 36" doors are pretty common, especially as exterior doors so should not cost to much. (You may find them cheaper than other size doors just because they're standard size exterior doors.)

On your trusses - talk to a truss manufacturer and get a quote from them. For me, the truss company did the design, built the trusses, and delivered them all for less than what it would have cost me just to buy the lumber and saved me all the labor.

 

[Doorman63]

If you increase your post spacing (8-10’) a car on a lift goes right in between the trusses. Sectional doors with trolley/drawbar openers require about 19” of headroom when using 15” radius tracks.
If you use a jackshaft style opener the headroom refuses to about 15”