Single axle trailer and SCUT TLB

[jel1988]

I bought a 6*12 single (3500 lb) axle utility trailer at Lowes a couple of years ago to haul a lawn tractor and landscape equipment. Last year I added a Mahindra Max 22 TLB to the fleet. I would like to use the existing trailer to transport the Max short distances around town (less than 7 miles). I have transported loads (entire skid of concrete pavers about 3500lbs) with the trailer before with no probems. The only problem I see is the ramp is constructed with 1 1/2 *1/8 angle iron with expanded metal decking. How should I reinforce the gate to accomodate the extra weight of the Max at 3000lbs plus or minus a couple hundred.

 

[Diamondpilot]

I would reconsider. A tractor is a top heavy load and a blown tire on the trailer can get real bad real quick. Get a proper tandem axle trailer without a gate but ramps.

Chris

 

[Professor Marvel]

Chris
That's what I have noticed about your posts - you always point out that people shouldn't do stupid things .

 

[timswi]

I would definitely go with a tandem. I have a BX23 TLB w/mmm and that little thing gets heavy quickly...Single axle just isn't enough. I have gates on both of my trailers and my machines have had no impact on them whatsoever. I mainly have the gate for various sized machines and the fact that my RTV1100 is tough to line up on ramps due to it's odd width. To each his own on that aspect.

A tandem is both safer and easier to pull as they most always have brakes which I wouldn't do without with a SCUT or above.

 

[Diamondpilot]

Chris
That's what I have noticed about your posts - you always point out that people shouldn't do stupid things .

I am all about eliminating risk. I do plenty of stupid things. Ask my misses. She can provide you a list!

Chris

 

[Diamondpilot]

I would definitely go with a tandem. I have a BX23 TLB w/mmm and that little thing gets heavy quickly...Single axle just isn't enough. I have gates on both of my trailers and my machines have had no impact on them whatsoever. I mainly have the gate for various sized machines and the fact that my RTV1100 is tough to line up on ramps due to it's odd width. To each his own on that aspect.

A tandem is both safer and easier to pull as they most always have brakes which I wouldn't do without with a SCUT or above.

Your trailer is a little different. It's gate is more purpose built. The OP'S trailer is a much lighter weight unit from lowes and the gate is just not up to the task.

The reason I am not a fan of gates is it prevents load overhang. To each his own on this one but to me the ramps work better for 90% of the people. If it works for you then a gate is what you need and that's fine.

Chris

 

[Ken45101]

You can always lay better ramps or 2x12's over the existing tailgate.

While I agree that a better trailer (and truck) is always safer, the OP described a short drive around town. Taken at slower speeds on good roads, it should be do-able with a reasonable amount of safety. Make sure the tires are at full pressure and in good shape.

The OP didn't mention the tow vehicle. That makes a big difference. I hope it is up to the job, especially for emergency stopping the load. In many states, trailer brakes are required by law for trailers rated over 3000# or 3500#. While I wouldn't have an issue pulling that with my 1 ton truck, I certainly would be leery of pulling it with a midsize SUV or pickup.

 

[Lunk]

You can always lay better ramps or 2x12's over the existing tailgate.

While I agree that a better trailer (and truck) is always safer, the OP described a short drive around town. Taken at slower speeds on good roads, it should be do-able with a reasonable amount of safety. Make sure the tires are at full pressure and in good shape.

The OP didn't mention the tow vehicle. That makes a big difference. I hope it is up to the job, especially for emergency stopping the load. In many states, trailer brakes are required by law for trailers rated over 3000# or 3500#. While I wouldn't have an issue pulling that with my 1 ton truck, I certainly would be leery of pulling it with a midsize SUV or pickup.

Good point. Sad thing is that the mfg. are rating most mid-sizes to tow 5-7k these days...

Does not mean it should be done, IMHO.

 

[Ken45101]

Good point. Sad thing is that the mfg. are rating most mid-sizes to tow 5-7k these days...

Does not mean it should be done, IMHO.

Our Jeep Grand Cherokee (2006) is rated to pull 6000#. I wouldn't do that, even with trailer brakes and a good controller.

Even funnier, Chevrolet rated the Chevette (1970's compact car) for towing 3000#. I couldn't even find a place to put a hitch on it other than the sheet metal on the floor of the trunk!

 

[deepNdirt]

I realize when buying a factory built "single axle" the axle has been located in a certain area of the trailer to position the load over the axle forward the tongue (or tow vehicle) part of the load, However ... by this trailer being a 12 ft. could an additional axle be added? and perhaps could add or extend the rear by a couple extra ft.
Just thinking about the 12 ft double axle trailer I had and extend the rear with a dovetail, wasn't very expensive or difficult to do, But I did do it all myself, Not sure what a welding shop would charge,
I am with the others, you should have a double axle trailer if hauling any tractor over 1500 lbs,