RickB
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- Just a Scag
My 'golden years' will be spent in a place where snow blowers aren't needed.
Snowblower size recommendation
- Thread starter dnw64
- Start date
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dnw64
Veteran Member
Wow, 30" in one pass is a real job!
If I were expecting any more than 12-15" I would plan on multiple passes during the storm, so theoretically, 15" of snow on a 74" blower with 21 PTO-HP would be the equivalent. 1.4 MPH sounds slow at first blush, but that's 2 feet per second, and a reasonable snowblowing speed IMO. And then again, the number of times I will need to blow even 15" at a time probably averages once a year or even less.
I appreciate the data point.
OP
dnw64
Veteran Member
I will definitely want a cab, but the vast majority of factory cabbed tractors are simply to big to fit in my garage, and there is no way I'm parking outside or building a new place for it.
I will probably just do a universal fit soft cab like a Bercomat etc. While heat would be "nice", the biggest thing for me is to get out of the wind/snow. With a decent setup I will generally only be out a half hour or so, and I can dress warmly enough for that pretty easily. Then again, once I make the first step, maybe I will get too spoiled and want more... Time will tell.
RickB
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Had I not been 700 miles from home during the storm, I certainly would have been at it during the event.
Sometimes life gets in the way.
RjCorazza
Elite Member
My L4060 cabbed tractor fits in my residential garage. I do have to use the manual release on the electric opener to open the door to full height. I would agree that staying dry is most of the battle, particularly with snow blowing.
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dnw64
Veteran Member
According to TractorData, the L4060 Cab is 91.1 inches tall*. You may have a residential garage, but it's supersized. Typical residential garage doors are 7' tall. Mine has about 82-1/2" clear opening at the jamb.
*Presumably with R1 tires, may be a couple inches shorter with R3/4.
*Presumably with R1 tires, may be a couple inches shorter with R3/4.
RoyJackson
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I'd go no wider then a 60" snow blower on a 17.4 PTO HP tractor. If the snow is the light powdery stuff, snow blowing is pretty easy. Biggest problem with the powdery stuff is visibility since, even with the chute pointed with the wind, you can be blinded.
A wet snow is heavy...won't throw as far and it'll bog the tractor.
Then there's the matter of frozen snow (melt and refreeze) which is something we'll see this week with temperatures in the upper thirties and low forties. I have about 45 or so PTO HP (72" snow blower) and frozen snow is tough until you break through the crust...even with the PTO HP I have, it's slow going and stopping until the engine catches up (from bogging).
The bigger the blower, the more power it consumes...and, unless you want to go really slow and have to stop when the engine bogs (and it will)...well, even with a 60" blower, you'll experience this. With a wider blower, you'll experience it more frequently.
A wet snow is heavy...won't throw as far and it'll bog the tractor.
Then there's the matter of frozen snow (melt and refreeze) which is something we'll see this week with temperatures in the upper thirties and low forties. I have about 45 or so PTO HP (72" snow blower) and frozen snow is tough until you break through the crust...even with the PTO HP I have, it's slow going and stopping until the engine catches up (from bogging).
The bigger the blower, the more power it consumes...and, unless you want to go really slow and have to stop when the engine bogs (and it will)...well, even with a 60" blower, you'll experience this. With a wider blower, you'll experience it more frequently.
leonz
Super Member
Hello Dnw64,
Just so you know you can purchase a Curtiss hard cab for the BX Kubota or Series 1 John Deere Mules and they will fit under most garage doors with the rops folded down so that is not much of an issue.
Whether its in the garage or not the mule wont care but if its in the garage your going to want to have heat in the garage to melt the ice and snow off the mule and the cab UNESS you have a space heater to melt everything and warm up the transmission and engine(something I do as a matter of practice as I keep my mule outdoors as the exhaust fumes get in the house.
I just roll the salamander space heater out and melt all the ice and and snow off it and heat up the transmission and engine as the air cooled engine I have does not have a block heater.
Its is something your going to want to do as a matter of maintenance as any snow in the impeller drum and refreeze and cause you many problems. melting off the ice and snow prevents all this either before or after use.
NOW chains are really a must have if you do not have liquid ballast in the tires as you can and will have situations where your mules tires will do nothing but spin on ice and just sit there.
If your budget is not an issue and you want a mule for snow removal a BX or series 1 JD model 2023 or 2025 with a Curtis cab with a heater will be more than adequate.
if you do not require the use of a loader and bucket you can invest in a hard cab and heater and a second snow caster either on the front or rear Municipalities to do this and several of the members has two snow casters on their mules so its an either or situation.
A set of chains mounted on the rear tires that do not have ballast in them will pay you many dividends in piece of mind.
As I said a four wheel drive mule will get stuck and really stuck simply because they are heavy and with no chains or a loader it will be a PIA to get out of the stuck position.
Its always a case of invest in the parts and equipment early and invest well and you do not have to spend money later.
Just so you know you can purchase a Curtiss hard cab for the BX Kubota or Series 1 John Deere Mules and they will fit under most garage doors with the rops folded down so that is not much of an issue.
Whether its in the garage or not the mule wont care but if its in the garage your going to want to have heat in the garage to melt the ice and snow off the mule and the cab UNESS you have a space heater to melt everything and warm up the transmission and engine(something I do as a matter of practice as I keep my mule outdoors as the exhaust fumes get in the house.
I just roll the salamander space heater out and melt all the ice and and snow off it and heat up the transmission and engine as the air cooled engine I have does not have a block heater.
Its is something your going to want to do as a matter of maintenance as any snow in the impeller drum and refreeze and cause you many problems. melting off the ice and snow prevents all this either before or after use.
NOW chains are really a must have if you do not have liquid ballast in the tires as you can and will have situations where your mules tires will do nothing but spin on ice and just sit there.
If your budget is not an issue and you want a mule for snow removal a BX or series 1 JD model 2023 or 2025 with a Curtis cab with a heater will be more than adequate.
if you do not require the use of a loader and bucket you can invest in a hard cab and heater and a second snow caster either on the front or rear Municipalities to do this and several of the members has two snow casters on their mules so its an either or situation.
A set of chains mounted on the rear tires that do not have ballast in them will pay you many dividends in piece of mind.
As I said a four wheel drive mule will get stuck and really stuck simply because they are heavy and with no chains or a loader it will be a PIA to get out of the stuck position.
Its always a case of invest in the parts and equipment early and invest well and you do not have to spend money later.
Last edited:
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dnw64
Veteran Member
Thanks for all the input.
I've looked at (physically and virtually) a lot of tractors, but there are very few out there with cabs on them already. A Curtis Cab currently runs at minimum $4000 (without heat OR ac), so adding one to a used tractor really skyrockets the price. I decided I needed to find a tractor with cab on it already so that they would both be depreciated (and I think the accessories depreciate faster than the tractor).
So tonight I purchased a 2006 Massey Ferguson GC2300 with 600 hours, 50" front snowblower and Curtis cab for $6200. Needs a little TLC, but mostly cosmetic. The only obvious mechanical was that the Diff Lock did not return to Off without a bit of finagling. I'm guessing it just needs a new return spring.
It also came with a set of chains, didn't check the tires for liquid. If it's there, fine, but it not I will probably run it just with the chains unless/until I find that's not enough. My 210# is not an insignificant addition... Since it does have a 3pt I may make a simple weight box for that. One advantage to the MF front blower system (same as the Kubota AFAIK) is that it does have down pressure if you want it. So if you need extra traction on the chained up rear tires you can give it to them. I've used this concept often on my old 2WD Case 444...
I don't have any intentions of pursuing it right at this time, but this tractor actually have a bit more PTO-HP than the TYM that I was initially asking about, so I could also consider a rear mount blower. If nothing else, I would find out how I like operating one. Would probably want to upgrade the back window to glass and add a wiper though...
I've looked at (physically and virtually) a lot of tractors, but there are very few out there with cabs on them already. A Curtis Cab currently runs at minimum $4000 (without heat OR ac), so adding one to a used tractor really skyrockets the price. I decided I needed to find a tractor with cab on it already so that they would both be depreciated (and I think the accessories depreciate faster than the tractor).
So tonight I purchased a 2006 Massey Ferguson GC2300 with 600 hours, 50" front snowblower and Curtis cab for $6200. Needs a little TLC, but mostly cosmetic. The only obvious mechanical was that the Diff Lock did not return to Off without a bit of finagling. I'm guessing it just needs a new return spring.
It also came with a set of chains, didn't check the tires for liquid. If it's there, fine, but it not I will probably run it just with the chains unless/until I find that's not enough. My 210# is not an insignificant addition... Since it does have a 3pt I may make a simple weight box for that. One advantage to the MF front blower system (same as the Kubota AFAIK) is that it does have down pressure if you want it. So if you need extra traction on the chained up rear tires you can give it to them. I've used this concept often on my old 2WD Case 444...
I don't have any intentions of pursuing it right at this time, but this tractor actually have a bit more PTO-HP than the TYM that I was initially asking about, so I could also consider a rear mount blower. If nothing else, I would find out how I like operating one. Would probably want to upgrade the back window to glass and add a wiper though...
dnw64
Sounds like you made an excellent choice.
It's good to see you've got a cab and chains.
I like my unheated Curtis cab and I think you'll find a heater is not required.
With chains, I don't believe you'll have any traction problems, as long as you have sufficient weight on you're 3 point hitch.
Sounds like you made an excellent choice.
It's good to see you've got a cab and chains.
I like my unheated Curtis cab and I think you'll find a heater is not required.
With chains, I don't believe you'll have any traction problems, as long as you have sufficient weight on you're 3 point hitch.