Steel gate post

   / Steel gate post #1  

paulsharvey

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Hawthorne, Fl
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Kioti CK2610 HST
I had a 6-7" diameter wood gate post, 8 ft long, 54" out of ground, 42" in ground, with 2 60# bags of concrete, that was allowing my 16 ft gate to sag. Got a 6'6" piece of high pressure 8" steel Gas main pipe; 4-#5 rebar, and 8-60# bags of quikcrete. Welded gate hinges to pipe after pouring footer, with the rebar going from 4 corners into pipe. Hopefully this solves the saggy gate issue. Still need to fill pipe with concrete, but that can come later.
20230529_123110.jpg
 
   / Steel gate post #2  
I had a 6-7" diameter wood gate post, 8 ft long, 54" out of ground, 42" in ground, with 2 60# bags of concrete, that was allowing my 16 ft gate to sag. Got a 6'6" piece of high pressure 8" steel Gas main pipe; 4-#5 rebar, and 8-60# bags of quikcrete. Welded gate hinges to pipe after pouring footer, with the rebar going from 4 corners into pipe. Hopefully this solves the saggy gate issue. Still need to fill pipe with concrete, but that can come later. View attachment 805161
Looks good now cap that post before it fills with rainwater and rusts.
Filling it with conc won't add much strength as you will have a cold joint at the floor level.
IF you wanted it super strong you could have run a rebar up the post and mono-poured it with the footer.
But honestly it looks plenty strong like it is.
 
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   / Steel gate post #3  
Two things: those hinges stick out pretty far and that big of a gate is going to create a pretty good moment arm on them and cause them to flex, and possibly fail sometime.
Second, a sixteen foot gate really should have a truss cable in it, that will take a lot of the flex and sag issues out.
 
   / Steel gate post
  • Thread Starter
#4  
Two things: those hinges stick out pretty far and that big of a gate is going to create a pretty good moment arm on them and cause them to flex, and possibly fail sometime.
Second, a sixteen foot gate really should have a truss cable in it, that will take a lot of the flex and sag issues out.
I left the bolts extra long as I am thinking about laying up brick around the steel post, strictly for appearance.
 
   / Steel gate post #5  
I had a 6-7" diameter wood gate post, 8 ft long, 54" out of ground, 42" in ground, with 2 60# bags of concrete, that was allowing my 16 ft gate to sag. Got a 6'6" piece of high pressure 8" steel Gas main pipe; 4-#5 rebar, and 8-60# bags of quikcrete. Welded gate hinges to pipe after pouring footer, with the rebar going from 4 corners into pipe. Hopefully this solves the saggy gate issue. Still need to fill pipe with concrete, but that can come later. View attachment 805161
It looks good. Now post is likely stronger than the gate. You could add a support wire.

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   / Steel gate post
  • Thread Starter
#6  
I've seen that on wooden gates and dumpster enclosures; but never on a typical tube steel gate.
 
   / Steel gate post #7  
I've seen that on wooden gates and dumpster enclosures; but never on a typical tube steel gate.
I cannot take credit. Down the street, the power company has a high-voltage line. The access has a steel farm gate. The power company used a utility pole at the gate entrance and ran a guide wire to the end of the gate at about a 45 degree angle.
 
   / Steel gate post #8  
I like that alot. I have 10 inch wood gate posts but the hinges and all are the weak security points. Anyone with a wrench could easily loosen up and remove the hinges from the gate side, and just a pipe wrench could rotate the hinge to post. All that you have welded removes those concerns.
 
   / Steel gate post #9  
I have 20' gates with the roller wheels on them. I like the cable idea though.
 
 
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