Subcompact Ballast Configuration

[Coyote_CS2220]

I utilize my CS2220 to move stuff around that my 4.5ton Yale fork lift cannot or does not like to go.

How much ballast do I need and can I minimize the size of the ballast? No need to have more than required, right?

After think about it for awhile and experimenting how to best utilize the full lift capacity of the FEL without having a large ballast box sticking out the back end and reducing my ability for maneuver in tight spaces.........and here is my solution.

With just the rear tires filled and a 600+- lbs load on the forks, the rear end comes off the ground. If I get off the seat, it really comes off the ground!

My solution is an inexpensive 3pt hitch with a 2inch receiver and some 1/2inch thick plate steel (Calculate Weight of a Steel Plate | Chapel Steel).

I welded a 1&1/2 threaded rod perpendicular to the middle vertical brace on the hitch and a nut with wings for tightening. I plasma cut some 1/2 inch plate into 20 X 19inch rectangles and blew a hole (off centre) to slide onto the threaded rod so that the plate weight rests on the 2inch receiver and not on the rod. The winged nut tightens it all up so there is no movement and it is good to go with minimum rear stick-out.

Six and 1/3 plates at 53lbs per plate is 334lbs plus the 3pt hitch - say 350lbs total works to keep the rear firmly on the ground with a capacity FEL load and I can safely get off the seat if I have to (of course I keep the FEL load just high enough off the ground to move around).

I notice this also substantially adds to the overall stability of the subcompact and reduces the tippy feel associated with the small tires and narrow wheel-base. I also welded up a tow ring for the receiver and the front guard/frame and keep my tow straps handy front and back.

I know there are lots of options and combos to achieve this, but threw this out there for those looking for ideas on how to address rear ballast and tippy-ness issues on a subcompact.

 

[Dave Canfield]

If you are not handy with building your own - heavyhitch.com sells a suitcase weight holder that is similar in concept to this.
I don't usually have problems with clearance out back so I went with the bigtoolrack.com carryall. It also can come with a suitcase weight holder.

 

[California]

Well done!

Here's my equivalent, one time when I had to work in a tight space.

45 lbs + 70 + 70 as I recall. I have two more of the 70 lb wheel weights but didn't need them this time.

One advantage of this method is the 3-point can lift the weights from the ground instead of rasseling them by hand.

I should have also put the flat towbar in the QH hooks to reduce swaying. Didn't think of it at the time.

 

[Coyote_CS2220]

Well done!

Here's my equivalent, one time when I had to work in a tight space.

45 lbs + 70 + 70 as I recall. I have two more of the 70 lb wheel weights but didn't need them this time.

One advantage of this method is the 3-point can lift the weights from the ground instead of rasseling them by hand.

I should have also put the flat towbar in the QH hooks to reduce swaying. Didn't think of it at the time.

Ya .......sometimes simple works best, however the pendulum effect from that weight on a chain would be disconcerting on my uneven ground.

 

[crazyjake8493]

Interesting solution! Good for tight spaces. I didn't want an implement hanging off mine all the time so I made a cheap ballast barrel which ends up protruding about 12" past the lift pins, which is fine for pretty much everything I do.

Always good to have ballast ready and available when using the loader and especially for forks. My rear tires are filled and when I moved some 450+lb concrete blocks last year (before I built the barrel) with no rear ballast the back end felt very light. I kept the forks about 3" off the ground with my hand on the joystick just in case.