Tips installing new injector pump?

[michaelTS354]

Some of you may had read my older post about injector pump problems on my TS354C. I have only 70-80 hours on my tractor now. Roughly 20 hrs ago I noticed some diesel fuel and very fine brass dust like shavings getting into the injector pump oil when I changed it, and it has only gotten worse since. I hate to call the brass in the oil shavings because you had to catch the light just right to see it in the oil. It is so bad now diesel fills the injector pump oil sump and then leaks out the banjo (overflow?) fitting. A local diesel shop said atleast $350 to $400 for a rebuild on my pump. My dealer was able to order one from china for $320 shipped to me, even though it took about two months to get I thought the price was fair. Anyway the tractor still runs great as of now but im hoping to install the pump this week and im looking for any tips or advice. I know the timing of the pump is the hardest I assume. Should I just align it as close as the factory pump and see how it runs? I definitely dont want to have to buy another pump anytime soon!

 

[doxford jim]

Some of you may had read my older post about injector pump problems on my TS354C. I have only 70-80 hours on my tractor now. Roughly 20 hrs ago I noticed some diesel fuel and very fine brass dust like shavings getting into the injector pump oil when I changed it, and it has only gotten worse since. I hate to call the brass in the oil shavings because you had to catch the light just right to see it in the oil. It is so bad now diesel fills the injector pump oil sump and then leaks out the banjo (overflow?) fitting. A local diesel shop said atleast $350 to $400 for a rebuild on my pump. My dealer was able to order one from china for $320 shipped to me, even though it took about two months to get I thought the price was fair. Anyway the tractor still runs great as of now but im hoping to install the pump this week and im looking for any tips or advice. I know the timing of the pump is the hardest I assume. Should I just align it as close as the factory pump and see how it runs? I definitely dont want to have to buy another pump anytime soon!

Mike,

That should be fairly easy to determine. The biggest thing is making sure that your engine is at TDC (top dead center). You should have a marking on the front crankshaft pulley somewhere to aid in determining that. However, it can be done without by turning the engine over until the #1 cylinder (extreme front cylinder) is at top dead center, using the valve rockers to show the position (after removing the valve cover from the engine). For TDC, there will be clearance under both the inlet and exhaust valver tappets.Taking out the glow plugs if fitted, will make turning the engine over much easier. Turn the engine slowly using a ratchet and socket that fits over the crankshaft pulley bolt. Engines usually run clockwise when viewed from the front.

Once you have TDC determined, remove the old injection pump and replace with the new one - making sure that plunger for the #1 cylinder is on the upward stroke or on top cam in the top position. This should give you the mid position approximately, for the adjustment and allow about 10 degrees adjust ment either way.

HTH

Jim

 

[michaelTS354]

Ok I understand all of that except how can can I tell if the number one cylinder plunger of the pump is in the up position? The shaft of the pump is keyed so I assume it can only go one way, it just has to be turned correctly. I think my engine does have the pointer and the crank pulley is marked so that should help me find TDC, but I will pull the valve cover to be sure. Thanks for you help.

 

[Ewal]

There are several posts in this forum on injector pump replacement. I believe they are from 04 or earlier. Check them out.
I replaced the pump on my IHT[Jinma] 284 last summer. On the 284 I located the markings on the front pulley and set the marker on sixteen to seventeen degrees BTDC for number one cylinder. I had to take off the cover on the timing gear housing to access the pump drive gear for removal. I removed the pump and installed the new one then turned the new pump until I got the fuel to just start to rise in the number one plunger on the pump. I tightened the adjustment bolts on the gear and made sure all fasteners were tight, replaced the timing gear cover and reconnected the #1 fuel line on the pump.
I was able to turn my engine with a socket on the alternator pully nut by using the compression release secured to hold valves open and the injector pump stop secured off. I simply applied preassure to the belt if it slipped.
My tractor started and ran as before after this procedure. There are obvious tasks such as priming the system and getting fuel line fittings tight etc. that I have skipped. Also you need to know the correct setting BTDC for the pump to be preassurizing #1 when setting the pump.
Hope this is some help, Elton

 

[michaelTS354]

I got my tractor running last night. I have had limited time to work on it. Mounting the pump up was easy. I had to remove the front cover to expose the gear that drives the pump. The gear has a keyway so the pump can only go in one way. The hardest part was bleeding the injector lines. That took me a while to get the air out and get it running. I think it still needs a little fine timing adjustment because im getting a little more smoke than before, but it runs great and actually has more power and revs faster and smoother. I guess that old pump was wearing fast from the diesel getting in the oil sump.