Torque wrench

   / Torque wrench #11  
If you are referring to the type with the beam and a indicator bar mounted above it, as long as the beam has not been damaged, you can bend the pointer into position so that it points to zero when the wrench is not under load. The indicator rod can get bent as it rattles around in the tool box. Just bend it back!
 
   / Torque wrench #12  
Hi Chris.

Just curious - how did you peform that test?
 
   / Torque wrench #13  
I don't see that you are any better off with a Craftsman than with the HF junk. The Craftman free replacement guarantee is useless for something like a torque wrench that can fail without you knowing it. I bought two of their top of the line torque wrenches and both were not worth the cost of the fancy plastic case they came in. They could not be calibrated so are worthless for their intended purpose. They could serve as spare ratchets though. I would trust a beam torque wrench before I would a Craftsman.
 
   / Torque wrench
  • Thread Starter
#14  
R_Squared

I was looking on ebay and found some used torque wrenches that looked like they are in good shape. The had some Proto and Snap-On wrenches that were a pretty good price. I noticed there were some of the clicker type and some with what appears to be a round guage (sort of like a pressure guage). Which type is more accurate? They seemed to be around the same price. Thanks for the tip on the calibrating service.

Haz
 
   / Torque wrench #15  
There's a whole lot more to using a torque wrench than hearing the click of the micrometer type. If you are doing a wheel bearing, you spin the wheel and look at the indicator of a beam type torque wrench - something you can NOT do with the micro type - the sometimes not so subtle difference between digital (micro) and analog (beam). How about the threads - are they clean? Lubed? Did you use Neverseize? Is there a gasket in the equation?

Start out with the beam type, make sure the handle is centered when you use it, then, when you know what you are doing, get a micro.
 
   / Torque wrench #16  
"with what appears to be a round guage (sort of like a pressure guage). "

That's a <font color="blue">dial indicating </font> type torque wrench.

I've used all types....good point about rolling the micrometer setting (click) back to zero between uses...but the best type for home use is the micrometer setting, but as mentioned, not the best for all applications (wheel bearings). Easiest to use, though.
 
   / Torque wrench #17  
<font color="blue">back to zero between uses </font>
A little clarification here ... You DO NOT try to set a wrench back to "0" -- instead you keep it stored at "the lowest setting" which is not "0" Turning it past the lowest setting is almost as bad as keeping it loaded when you're done with it.
 
   / Torque wrench #18  
Haz,

The dial types are usually more expensive. Call a calibration center to get an explanation. They service the instruments and see the various problems. They might even give you a specific manufacturer/model to fit you application.
 
 
Top