Trailer Brakes Overheating

[3930dave]

Along the lines of what Furu was talking about.....

You may need to verify the wiring on the trailer - the signal going to the brake puck coil should vary as you adjust the brake controller. Most controllers have a manual test mode, so you don't have to drive. Read the voltage with a DMM, set to DC Volts - brake controller line, measured to ground.

If the trailer was mis-wired such that your normal brake light signal (as opposed to the variable controller signal) goes to the brake puck coil, then that would slam your trailer brakes on full, regardless of what you did with the controller.

Rgds, D.

 

[Ken45101]

I would have the brakes adjusted at a shop that understands these kinds of brakes. Manufacturers tell you to have them adjusted after initial use.

As suggested, try driving with the controller set at zero (unloaded trailer, of course). If it still heats up, the shoe is dragging.

I have had a Tekonsha proportional controller for almost ten years and love it. I use multiple trailers and it's easy to adjust. According to the manual, the braking should be increased until the trailer wheel locks up and then back off a bit.

(In many states, brakes are required on all trailer axles for trailers over 3000 or 3500 gross weight. I haul 10-14K trailers and definitely want brakes on all axles).

 

[radioman]

If it was me, I would be pulling the drums off NOW and grease all bearings. Before reassembly, I would inspect the wiring to the magnets. sometimes it gets eaten up by mice and the other brakes tends to overcompensate and get hot. it also makes the trailer pull to one side when using brakes.

 

[Diamondpilot]

If it was me, I would be pulling the drums off NOW and grease all bearings. Before reassembly, I would inspect the wiring to the magnets. sometimes it gets eaten up by mice and the other brakes tends to overcompensate and get hot. it also makes the trailer pull to one side when using brakes.

This is a good point. Who knows what's in them drums with all the sitting around that trailer has done. I once had a guy bring in a trailer for service and the drums were full of dog food.

Chris

 

[Hanksride]

Update: I did a thorough inspection of everything, wiring is clean and good, everything looks like new. I backed the brakes off by turning the adjustment screw in the drum and still could not get the drums off. I pecked on it with a 2lb sledge, pryed with large pry tools, nothing to the point of damaging anything but enough it should have come off. Never could get it off, have not tried the other side yet. BTW both sides are getting hot, not just one side.

I adjusted the brakes back to about where it was at when I started then I hooked it to truck and jacked the trailer up and had my wife push the brakes while I was spinning the tire. The tire free spins very loosely and as the brake is applied comes to slow stop, if she hit the brakes quickly it stopped quickly. Everything seemed to be working as designed. I took the dust covers off the buddy bearings and found nice clean red hi-temp grease in the hub area, again never could get to the bearings to inspect them.

As for settings on the brake controller. I was using the medium boost and had it set on max output of 8.0. Again that is max output, that does not mean that it is putting that to the wheel under normal braking, I would have to push the pedal through the floor to get that output. Maybe that is to high but I didn't think it would be if I never got to that point unless needed an emergency quick stop. Next time I drag it I am going to back the settings way down and see if that helps.

Thanks for all the replies, I appreciate it. I got a little busy and just now got back out here but certainly picked up on a few things to try.

 

[3930dave]

Post a picture of the drums you have..... a guy like Chris will have seen just about every variation that's recently been on the road.

On mine (been a while....) I'm pretty sure that I had to pull the bearing buddy off, and undo the axle nut, then pull the outer bearing to get the drum off. I had the advantage of having the OE manual that the previous owner of my TT passed along to work with.... so was easy to see at the time.

With the bearing buddy, go easy on the gun.... one of mine had about half a tube of grease pumped past the seal, and into the brake area - all parts were in good shape, but the brake was doing nada - kinda the opposite of your problem.

Good luck, and do try dialing back the controller as a test.

Rgds, D.

 

[Diamondpilot]

You must remove the buddy bearing, pull the cotter pin, back off the axle nut, remove the thrust washer, and then pull the drum on trailers to get the bearings out and inspect the shoes.

Chris

 

[3930dave]

Thanks Chris....

I was reasonably certain that was the standard setup, but didn't want to advise Hank that, and have him struggling with a specialized Schnitzengruber fitting I didn't know about.....

Rgds, D.