Using concrete slabs to "pave" some wet spots in a road.

   / Using concrete slabs to "pave" some wet spots in a road. #31  
That's why he needs this!
 
   / Using concrete slabs to "pave" some wet spots in a road. #32  
I was at a chemical plant under construction in Russia last year and they used slabs of concrete that were approximately 6 x 12 (probably metric, but I don't think that way) to temporarily pave the roadways placing them side by side. Since there was nothing under the slabs they shifted every which way and made for the most God awful ride I ever had in a bus. The impressive thing was that I never saw a cracked slab.

I'm afraid without some form of bedding your slabs will create nothing more than headaches.

In Some places in Russia 8 inch deep ruts would be considered a very good road!
 
   / Using concrete slabs to "pave" some wet spots in a road. #33  
Do you think it would be taboo to use large pieces of asphalt in this system as well. Again, this is a wetland type area, is the risk of serious pollution an issue using old asphalt in a wet environment like that?
It can leave an oil sheen on the water, at least for the first while until it washes off a bit and settles in. Best to keep asphalt out of the swamp, IMO. That said, people do it all the time around here, building up road beds in wet areas using truck loads of millings.
 
   / Using concrete slabs to "pave" some wet spots in a road. #34  
Whether asphalt pavements would hold up structurally, is mostly dependent on what the rock, that it is made of. In many types of stone, water will make the asphalt binder let loose of the rock, pavement engineers refer to it as stripping.

A single layer of concrete in large slabs might, big might, work. The doublelayer over lapped lik brick would work a bit better.

But both asphalt and concrete pavements in the 4 to 6-inch thicknesses are referred to as “flexible” pavements in roadway design. Your best bet is to place some 2-inch minus, 3/4-inch plus crushed aggregate, (reject coarse concrete aggregate will be least expensive, if you can find it), with a lot of fractured faces. Spread it out, then drive over it to sink it into the mud, and keep doing it until the rock starts to bridge, and bring it up to a bit bone the level you want the road. If it settles in the future add more stone.

You do not want to add what is referred to as a road base or Type-II, or Type 87, all of them have fine material in them, and because your road is muddy, you a lot o fine material and not enough coarse material to have strength when wet. Adding larger, angular material will help stabilize the soil.
 

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