Oil & Fuel Water in hydraulic fluid???
- Thread starter kjacob
- Start date
Hi Everyone,
The change out of the oil went smoothly (mostly) with the help of a friend that's done it before. The local municipal garage burns the used oil in their furnace which is pretty neat. The one thing I have to be careful of in the future is how hard the drain plugs were tightened. I can't understand why someone would do that. I really had to pull hard and I was in danger of having the socket come off the nut and take some metal with it. In any case the TC-30 has a nice warm tummy full of new (expensive -- ouch) hydraulic oil.
Thanks again for everyone's help.
Ken
The change out of the oil went smoothly (mostly) with the help of a friend that's done it before. The local municipal garage burns the used oil in their furnace which is pretty neat. The one thing I have to be careful of in the future is how hard the drain plugs were tightened. I can't understand why someone would do that. I really had to pull hard and I was in danger of having the socket come off the nut and take some metal with it. In any case the TC-30 has a nice warm tummy full of new (expensive -- ouch) hydraulic oil.
Thanks again for everyone's help.
Ken
Soundguy
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some people don't understand what seals a particular fastener.. whether it is oring, washer, or thread deforemation, and just over tightens it to be sure 
Soundguy
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- Central florida
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- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
on some of these fords I work on.. they have a big bung drain.. like 2" opening.. new gasket is cheap.. or you can make one from thin 1-ply cardboard or postrer board, card stick.. shoebox.. etc. for free.
most people are so cheap they either use a glue/goo that hardens like cement, or just opt to tighten it to 50 bajillon foot pounds to seal it.
I broke the cast iron plug on my NAA taking it out due to that.
also.. they are too cheap to smear some ptfe paste on a pipe plug when re inserting it into a casting.
I ALMOST ALWAYS put in new plugs when I repalce a drain plug.
many hardware stores sell them by the pound.. or you can get 2-4 for a buck!
not worth stripping a casting or breaking a plug off or having a leak because someone was too cheap to repalce a plug.
In bad areas or thin castings.. i will even use brass plugs for safety.
I'm also not a fan of inverted head plugs.. allen or square.
for originality I always save oem inverted plugs and put ina baggie in the tool box in case I ever show one.. but for use.. i put in a new square external head plug..
have simply drilled out and re-tapped way to many broke out plgs to do otherwise.
soundguy
most people are so cheap they either use a glue/goo that hardens like cement, or just opt to tighten it to 50 bajillon foot pounds to seal it.
I broke the cast iron plug on my NAA taking it out due to that.
also.. they are too cheap to smear some ptfe paste on a pipe plug when re inserting it into a casting.
I ALMOST ALWAYS put in new plugs when I repalce a drain plug.
many hardware stores sell them by the pound.. or you can get 2-4 for a buck!
not worth stripping a casting or breaking a plug off or having a leak because someone was too cheap to repalce a plug.
In bad areas or thin castings.. i will even use brass plugs for safety.
I'm also not a fan of inverted head plugs.. allen or square.
for originality I always save oem inverted plugs and put ina baggie in the tool box in case I ever show one.. but for use.. i put in a new square external head plug..
have simply drilled out and re-tapped way to many broke out plgs to do otherwise.
soundguy
Soundguy
Old Timer
- Joined
- Mar 11, 2002
- Messages
- 52,238
- Location
- Central florida
- Tractor
- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
speaking of drilling out plugs.. there's a good trick hidden in that statement.
many times I have seen a stripped hole ina casting that I did not want to or could not oversize the hole due to other factors. and I would drill for the next size up pipe plug, install and lock in with thread locker, cut head off with a sawsall, and then drill and tap OEM hole size.
the cast drills and taps easy, AND if in a casting.. you are back to about the same strength and metal as the sourounding material. no heli coil to back out or loosen up.. etc. seals good too.. sometimes I've seen heli coils not seal well, for places that had fluid pressure behind them.
soundguy
many times I have seen a stripped hole ina casting that I did not want to or could not oversize the hole due to other factors. and I would drill for the next size up pipe plug, install and lock in with thread locker, cut head off with a sawsall, and then drill and tap OEM hole size.
the cast drills and taps easy, AND if in a casting.. you are back to about the same strength and metal as the sourounding material. no heli coil to back out or loosen up.. etc. seals good too.. sometimes I've seen heli coils not seal well, for places that had fluid pressure behind them.
soundguy