Traction Wheel weights or filled tires?

   / Wheel weights or filled tires? #31  
What I am trying to caution about is the idea of putting fluid in the tires, then add wheel weights, and then a ballast box these newer tractors can't take it.

WRONG

The tractors today aren't built like the old ones.

Correct. New ones are built BETTER

You have to baby these newer tractors along or you will break something.

Nope. You just cannot pretend a 30HP COMPACT tractor can do what a 85HP AG machine will do.

Perhaps you should go get a modern 4wd 85hp machine.....then watch it work circles around the old allis.

And yes I'm not overly fond of modern tractors, I like the old ones better.


Thats obvious. For whatever reason, your first venture into a "modern" tractor hasnt been a good one for you. Sounds like you got a lemon of a model, that is too small to do what you ask. Dont know if thats YOUR fault? Or your dealers for guiding you to that tractor or not. Dont really care either. You have had a bad experience with ONE new tractor and now all of the sudden they are ALL bad, they are ALL weak, and you are spewing garbage trying to scare people into believing that they are gonna break their tractors. Comical to say the very least.

Here is an idea, sell your MF. Go buy an old 30HP tractor. 8N maybe? Put a loader and a 5' bushhog on it. See if you have the same problems breaking/wearing out front end components, hard starting, etc etc.
 
   / Wheel weights or filled tires? #32  
Forget the 8n. If you are wanting a 30 hp get a 4 cyl (mine's a '63) Ford 2000 diesel with Live PTO and 6 speed hi-lo. That's a 30 hp hard to beat for cheap, fuel efficient, maintenance free, even at 50+ years of age, solid worker if you don't want the 4wd and loader options.
 
   / Wheel weights or filled tires? #33  
Forget the 8n. If you are wanting a 30 hp get a 4 cyl (mine's a '63) Ford 2000 diesel with Live PTO and 6 speed hi-lo. That's a 30 hp hard to beat for cheap, fuel efficient, maintenance free, even at 50+ years of age, solid worker if you don't want the 4wd and loader options.

My point still remains the same as the points I have made about his MF15xx.

If you put a front loader on a ford 2000, and work it hard, you are just as likely to have front end issues.
If you run a 5' cutter hard, and dont keep the radiator/screen clean....yes it also overheats

Compared to his beloved allis 185, He'd have to baby any 30hp tractor he gets behind the wheel of, regardless of vintage....based on what he has told us.

Spewing bad info to people and proclaiming that new tractors are fragile, frail, and need babied....take that BS elsewhere. It seems to be more of a recurring theme here on TBN, that an ill-informed buyer bought the wrong machine. Weather that be their fault for lack of research/knowledge....or their dealers....who knows. But when someone buys the wrong machine, they always want to bad-mouth it, call it a POS, gutless, or a Joke....and never want to think maybe they were the ones that messed up.
 
   / Wheel weights or filled tires? #34  
What I am trying to caution about is the idea of putting fluid in the tires, then add wheel weights, and then a ballast box these newer tractors can't take it. Your probably going to break something. The tractors today aren't built like the old ones. You have to baby these newer tractors along or you will break something...

That is just the opposite of what my owners manual says to do. Mine says to add fluid to the tires and a ballast box, most likely filled with concrete, and then throw on some wheel weights on the wheels also. It all depends if the engineers where sleeping at the drawing board and were trying to get their tractors to do things out of their league.

If engineered correctly everything should work out except in areas of abuse.
 
   / Wheel weights or filled tires?
  • Thread Starter
#36  
Yup, wheel weights, a backhoe, filled tires don't leak.





Like 219 wrote WHAT DO YOU HAVE on THE TRACTOR?

My tractors - B7610 w/o filled tires, M4700 w/ filled tires are "light in the rear". With a GOOD FULL BUCKET of wet gravel I'm driving on my front wheels on either. Several times I've had the "butt pucker" experience and either have gone back and dumped some of the bucket or put more weight on the rear.



This guy just seems a troll.

For the OP - IF YOU CAN SWING IT
Put an attachment on the back.
By "swing it" I mean both financially and ROOM. IF you have a "critical dimension" like fitting down and turning around in narrow area even a ballast box may not fit.
But it's relatively cheap to hook up a 55 gal drum of concrete on the 3pt.

LOL - oh, I’m swinging an attachment on the back. It’s a BH92 backhoe on delivery. I only asked fluid or weights because the dealer I bought the B2650 from fills all tires and the dealer I just bought the MX5200 from puts weights on every tractor. I have plenty of heavy attachments - chipper, 6’ rotary mower, 6’ back blade, and now the backhoe.
 
   / Wheel weights or filled tires? #37  
My point still remains the same as the points I have made about his MF15xx.

If you put a front loader on a ford 2000, and work it hard, you are just as likely to have front end issues.
If you run a 5' cutter hard, and dont keep the radiator/screen clean....yes it also overheats

Compared to his beloved allis 185, He'd have to baby any 30hp tractor he gets behind the wheel of, regardless of vintage....based on what he has told us.

Spewing bad info to people and proclaiming that new tractors are fragile, frail, and need babied....take that BS elsewhere. It seems to be more of a recurring theme here on TBN, that an ill-informed buyer bought the wrong machine. Weather that be their fault for lack of research/knowledge....or their dealers....who knows. But when someone buys the wrong machine, they always want to bad-mouth it, call it a POS, gutless, or a Joke....and never want to think maybe they were the ones that messed up.
For what is worth, I've been around tractor all my life. I've been around an 8n ford, m farmall, the old a and n John Deere, I've own a b7100 Kubota (that was a heap of work), d-15 allis Chalmers, 930 case, 730 John Deere, 656 ih, 806 ih, etc. The old narrow fronts would bog down in the mud and get stuck, but ruggedness and just pure grit the old tractors had it. You really didn't need weight on the rear unless you wanted to. Not alot of breakdown issues. These tractors were dependable and easy on the budget. There is always some post on this forum of guys having trouble with there little mf. In fact if you scan the post there is a post with a guy having trouble with his mf 1529 not starting when it is cold. I got the same problem. A guy last summer was having trouble overheating, I got the same problem. I 've seen guys have trouble with the three point arms, I got the same problem. I've seen guys have trouble with the hydrostatic drive, mine has actually held up pretty well. The bucket is cheaply made, stress cracks all over the place. Pto problems and others on here have had the same or similar issues. Can't compare front axle differential cause old tractors weren't four wheel drive. It is what it is I all stand by the old tractors. Who wants a tractor that is always having problems? I'm pretty sour on Kubota over the b 7100 experience. That was 35+ years ago. Maybe Kubota has gotten their act together, but I'm pretty gun shy of Kubota. So the is alot more tractor experience than my "beloved allis Chalmers 185"
 
 
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