Wiring up lights on Ford 2000

[Soundguy]

Only reason i mention using a real headlamp switch is 1, most have an integral fuse holder, thus saving you a couple bucks, 2, most headlamp switches are 3 position.. off, on and on+aux

IE.. you can do first click as headlamps only, and all the way out as headlamps plus work lamp.. that way you don't have to burn that work lamp full time.

if you put a red marker lamp back there for driving on the road, wire the red lamp with the head lamps.. thus 1 click and headlamps and red lamp are on, and if you have a SMV plaque, you are road legal. don't want a rear facing 'white' lamp when driving on the road.

that 3 position headlamp switch lets you buy just 1 switch instead of 2 switches.. IE.. one for headlamps and one for tail lamp, and again.. saves you that extra fuse holder.. or really, a fuse holder for each lamp switch/ckt.

just more tidy, and cheaper to use the correct parts. Doesn't have to be a ford OEM switch.. most auto places and farm stores sell a generic 20a push / pull headlamp switch made for a main ckt and a running lamp ckt, and have integral fuse holder.. usually a 5$ item... comes with a fuse even...

soundguy

 

[mwb]

If you are looking to reduce your power requirements you can also get lower power lamps. Grote Industries: Product #64101 - 12-Volt, Sealed Beam is a 35w - probably closer to the power of the original.

If you are running 55w lamps one would be plenty bright but would look odd with only one on. My tractor headlamps are useless (they light up the back of the bucket real well) but I have lots of light with one 55W flood overhead (one towards front, one facing rear). Maybe you should leave the sheetmetal alone and build your self a ROPS with canopy and install overhead?:thumbsup:

Also, while not a huge consumption, you can replace a flasher (rear red) with an LED bulb, 1156 LED is commonly used and relatively cheap.

P.S. I sold my '74 Ford 2000 diesel when I bought my new tractor

 

[twoone]

Thanks Paul. I'm sorry I didn't make myself clear about what I intended to use, and I too guess I might have just "assumed" everyone would know that I would use 55 watt lights on my application. Anyway, sorry again for any misunderstandings I may have caused. For the record, I think both you and Soundguy are incredibly knowledgable, about such things!

Thank you, I was glad to be of any assistance and at least give you something to think about and sorry if I confused you I did not mean to; Sincerely, Paul

 

[Soundguy]

back on page 4, post # 36, it was mentioned about the 35w lamps..e tc.

if he gets a red led lamp for a flasher, he will also need a electronic flasher module, and not a regular heated bi-metalic strip flasher module.

soundguy

If you are looking to reduce your power requirements you can also get lower power lamps. Grote Industries: Product #64101 - 12-Volt, Sealed Beam is a 35w - probably closer to the power of the original.

If you are running 55w lamps one would be plenty bright but would look odd with only one on. My tractor headlamps are useless (they light up the back of the bucket real well) but I have lots of light with one 55W flood overhead (one towards front, one facing rear). Maybe you should leave the sheetmetal alone and build your self a ROPS with canopy and install overhead?:thumbsup:

Also, while not a huge consumption, you can replace a flasher (rear red) with an LED bulb, 1156 LED is commonly used and relatively cheap.

P.S. I sold my '74 Ford 2000 diesel when I bought my new tractor

 

[mwb]

back on page 4, post # 36, it was mentioned about the 35w lamps..e tc.

if he gets a red led lamp for a flasher, he will also need a electronic flasher module, and not a regular heated bi-metalic strip flasher module.

soundguy

:thumbsup: I skipped a bunch of posts that seemed to be going back and forth... and, yes he will need the correct (non-load dependent) flasher. Maybe Grote (or some other mfr) has a complete unit with the flasher built in?

 

[Soundguy]

even if not.. the correct one is available, at only about 2-3x the cost of a thermal unit.

soundguy