MarshSt
Bronze Member
I have wanted a leveling box for my YM2210 for years but have never made the time figure out a solution until now. The original adjustable link length is 14” to 19-3/4” with a 5/8” fork hole and ¾” knuckle pin.
I found this unit with the closest specs and decided that it could be modified to fit.
All States Ag Parts Item No. 124342
Compatible with Ford Tractor(s) 1300, 1310, 1500, 1510, 1700, 1900, 1910
Replaces Ford OEM nos SBA370010122, SBA370200230
Adjustable Length: 16-1/2" to 20-1/2" (It was actually 16” to 20”)
Fork Opening: 7/8"
Fork Pin Diameter:5/8"
Knuckle Pin Diameter: 7/8"
Here are the necessary modifications.
I found this unit with the closest specs and decided that it could be modified to fit.
All States Ag Parts Item No. 124342
Compatible with Ford Tractor(s) 1300, 1310, 1500, 1510, 1700, 1900, 1910
Replaces Ford OEM nos SBA370010122, SBA370200230
Adjustable Length: 16-1/2" to 20-1/2" (It was actually 16” to 20”)
Fork Opening: 7/8"
Fork Pin Diameter:5/8"
Knuckle Pin Diameter: 7/8"
Here are the necessary modifications.
- Drill a second 5/8” hole through the lower fork 7/8” closer to the u-bend. This location will still allow full range of motion on my 3-point arm.
- Cut the threaded adjuster leg off from fork forming at the mating line. You will have to cut through the weld bead to remove any remaining adjuster leg tubing and then grind for weld prep.
- Cut an additional 1” off the NON-THREADED end of the adjuster leg and prep for weld.
- Weld the adjuster leg back onto the fork forming (Check thread location!). I didn’t make the mistake but I sure was concerned that I might. I welded this square and centered, no angle or offset.
- Cut ½” off the outer adjuster tube. This is thin but I was able to carefully use my steel pipe cutter to get a nice square cut. I was lucky to have the wheel cutter but a cutoff wheel will work too, just be careful to protect the threads.
- Cut ½” off of the exposed ¾-12 adjuster threads and deburr the cut end so it threads nicely into the adjuster leg.
- Press 7/8” x ¾” bushings into the upper knuckle holes.
- The final adjustment range is 14” to 17” so I lost almost 3” total length but I can move the fork pin into the original hole to gain another 7/8” of that back if needed. This length range should work for everything I currently do since I have never run the original link anywhere close to max length. The super easy adjustment is going to be worth it.
- I touched up the grey paint but will repaint Yanmar chassis green (AKA Rustoleum Satin Spruce Green 7737) next time I have paint on hand.