YM1610D Brakes
- Thread starter remurden
- Start date
New, aftermarket.mark777 said:Wow, that is a terrific deal...wished they were that inexpensive when it seemed like I was ordering sets every couple of weeks. Are they new or rebuilt? Actually I wouldn't care as it use to be either new or used!
Mark
kenmac
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remurden said:
Clean everything up with mineral spirits. Just clean the drum up real good . Replace the shoes. I can't advise on the seals
ritchieb
Bronze Member
Welcome to TBN. I also have a 1610D that had a leak as you described. Easy job to replace the brake stub axle seal. The seal just sets behind the brake drum and I pried my old one out with a screwdriver. One word of advice, try to find a 3 jaw puller to get the drum off. A two jaw puller will not work due to the 3 holes in the drum. My drum was not easy to get off and would strongly advise the puller, it will save you some headaches Order the collar as well as the seal, (seal frictions against the collar) mine had a new seal but not a collar due to it being out of stock. One other thing, make sure the drain hole in the bottom of the brake housing casting is open to drain water and/or hydraulic fluid should it happen again. I am no tractor mechanic but it took just about an hour at my pace. Be safe, block your tires and use jack stands for your tractor support, got to have all the Yanmar owners around for a long, long, time LMTC suppled my seal and collar.
Order the collar as well as the seal, (seal frictions against the collar) mine had a new seal but not a collar due to it being out of stock. One other thing, make sure the drain hole in the bottom of the brake housing casting is open to drain water and/or hydraulic fluid should it happen again. I am no tractor mechanic but it took just about an hour at my pace. Be safe, block your tires and use jack stands for your tractor support, got to have all the Yanmar owners around for a long, long, time LMTC suppled my seal and collar.If the hydraulic fluid leaks are not too bad, you can leave seals alone. To replace seals, you have to remove drum and drain hydraulic fluid. Round rubber seal is located behind drum. After you decide what you want to do with the shoes, (replace or extend life by turning anchor pin), make sure to sand drum. This can be done by hand sanding without removing drum. If you want to remove drum, sometimes, the large nut that secures drum, can be very stubborn. Also, sometimes, drum is difficult to remove from spline after nut is removed. Do final clean-up on drums with brake cleaner. That will remove all oily residue. Drums do not have to be perfectly smooth like on a car. Remember, brakes are hardly used, and when used, speed in relatively very slow. Good luck.
bobandmolly
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what is the anchor pin?
California
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In the HoyeTractor diagram that Kenmac referenced, its item 10.bobandmolly said:
The lower end of each shoe moves outward when you push the brake pedal, but the upper end of the shoe simply rests on the anchor pin.kenmac said:
The pin is rectangular. You turn it a quarter turn to widen the distance between the upper ends of the shoes, to start on the second 50% of their useful life. (This assumes the linings are simply worn - not contaminated.)
When I used to do this on my first cars, 49 Chev etc, I would rotate the most worn end of the shoe toward the anchor. This is because, obviously, it won't wear as fast there. I don't know if Yanmar suggests this.